The new taper roller wheel bearings, oil seals and thrust washers arrived in the post today. Whilst H was watching the TV I went into the garage and set about fitting the new bits. When I checked the codes on the new bearing I found they were different to the existing ones. It was easy to see the difference. The new bearings are narrower. The difference is enough to take away the play. I did a dry run on the rear wheel putting the bearings, seal and trust washers together. They fitted perfectly. I disassembled it all again then greased up the bearings and reassembled the wheel. The thread on the "new"stainless steel wheel axle is damaged and try as I might can cannot recover the thread.
That means I have had to go back original standard steel item. The original item was rusty where the axle was exposed to the weather. The got the Dremmel out, fitted a sanding wheel and set about de-rusting the axle. It only took a few minutes but it was clear the rust had badly pitted the steel. I cleaned up the worst of the rusting without damaging the diameter of the axle. I not the black spray paint tin out of the cupboard and gave the exposed end of the axle a good coat of paint. I shall try to fit the axle at the weekend. The paint should be hard by then.
Thursday, 27 January 2011
Monday, 24 January 2011
More Wheel Bearings
I had a brain wave this evening. Took off the bevel drive and put the rear wheel on the bench. With the wheel off and dust covers out the bevel fitted perfectly on the wheel. I put the bevel back on the bike and offered up the wheel again. It still was a good fit. I took the wheel off and fitted the inner bearing and re-fitted the wheel. Again a good fit. Wheel off. This time I added the oil seal and re-fitted the wheel. Eureka!.....play. So now I know where the issue is. There seems to be few options for sizes of dust seals. I will have a chat with the parts suppliers to see what can be done.
I have also order the instrument pods that will house the volt meter and clock. Hopefully I will have them before the weekend.
I accidentally hit the start button whilst moving the bike; the ignition key was in the on position whilst I checked the volt meter reading, and the bike burst into life. So now the bike wants to run.
I have also order the instrument pods that will house the volt meter and clock. Hopefully I will have them before the weekend.
I accidentally hit the start button whilst moving the bike; the ignition key was in the on position whilst I checked the volt meter reading, and the bike burst into life. So now the bike wants to run.
Sunday, 21 November 2010
Rear Wheel Bearing
The rear wheel has away had a lot of play and I have put that down to worn out wheel bearing. I took off the rear mud guard. I had a couple reasons for that. First, the mud guard has to be painted. Second, I need to sort out the rear lights and wiring loom that feeds the rear light cluster is attached to the mud guard and lastly it makes getting wheel out easier. When I had the mud guard off I took off the rubber mud guard extender. That was a bit of a wrestle. Pinging off the wiring loom straps was easy.
Getting the wheel off was easy. I looked at he brake linings. They were a good condition. However the wheel bearing weren't. I pulled off the dust covers and spacers. They were completely caked in thick, sticky, oxidisied grease. I put the taper rollers, dust covers and spacers in a degreasing solution. Then I degreased the bearing surfaces inside the wheel's hub. I then turned my attention to the fit of the wheel to the drive spline. I offered the wheel up and it still felt like some was holding it off. I took that wheel out and replaced it with the new Ebay wheel. That wheel had a bit a play in it too. I put the new stainless steel spindle in and had a good look at it. I had a old steel spindle which I had to dig out of the bottom of the spares box. I compared the two spindles. The stainless item look wrong when compared with the original item. There was not much in it but then again the play is only small. The old spindle was a much better fit but it is a bit rusty.
The next job is to clean up the old spindle, repack the bearing with grease then refit the wheel and hope the play disappears.
Getting the wheel off was easy. I looked at he brake linings. They were a good condition. However the wheel bearing weren't. I pulled off the dust covers and spacers. They were completely caked in thick, sticky, oxidisied grease. I put the taper rollers, dust covers and spacers in a degreasing solution. Then I degreased the bearing surfaces inside the wheel's hub. I then turned my attention to the fit of the wheel to the drive spline. I offered the wheel up and it still felt like some was holding it off. I took that wheel out and replaced it with the new Ebay wheel. That wheel had a bit a play in it too. I put the new stainless steel spindle in and had a good look at it. I had a old steel spindle which I had to dig out of the bottom of the spares box. I compared the two spindles. The stainless item look wrong when compared with the original item. There was not much in it but then again the play is only small. The old spindle was a much better fit but it is a bit rusty.
The next job is to clean up the old spindle, repack the bearing with grease then refit the wheel and hope the play disappears.
Saturday, 20 November 2010
Oil Leak
The right hand cylinder base has been pouring out oil during the recent hot running. I thought it was the oil pressure switch but I tracked it back to the cylinder base. The join does not have a gasket. It a machined face to face fit with rubber "O" ring. Whatever the oil tight mechanism it was not working. I dismantled the cylinder from the engine block and cleaned up all the oil. When it was all clean and oil free I squeezed on a liquid gasket and re-assembled the cylinder. As expect the oil rings where fiddly but I preserved and got them engaged. After that it was just a question of doing up all the nuts and bolts, refitting the carbs for the umpteenth time. However the tappets needed adjusting. I read the manual for the clearance but could I find it? I had to come in from the garage, get cleaned up and go on the Internet for the measurement. Having found the settings I went back to the garage and set the tappets clearances. When the engine is new the clearances should 0.05mm greater than for a run in engine. Since I had the right cylinder of it was easy to set the tappets. Having finished that side I went round to the other side, took of the rocker cover and reset the tappets which I considered too tight. I put the rocker cover back on and tidied up.
I drained the petrol off the old tank into the new tank and fitted the new tank to the bike for the first time. It fitted as you would expect. I still need a rubber for the front tank mount.
Whilst turning the engine over by hand spotted the back wheel was going round. I jacked the back wheel off the ground a jostled the gearbox into neutral. The tested the clutch and it disengaged. I had been concerned that the clutch was not disengaging. It is, that is good.
I had a look at the new "Ebay" wheels. I am not that impressed. The spokes need a good cleaning and a drive spline on the rear wheel is very worn. I should be able to fit the twin discs but the front wheel but they need to go as a pair. It is quite nice that the disc on the new wheel is a cast iron item. Cast iron discs work better than stainless steel discs as brakes but rust quicker and since the bike will probably sit around, stainless discs are probably the right choice.
It fitted the new seat and it fits properly. I took it off again again and stored it.
I drained the petrol off the old tank into the new tank and fitted the new tank to the bike for the first time. It fitted as you would expect. I still need a rubber for the front tank mount.
Whilst turning the engine over by hand spotted the back wheel was going round. I jacked the back wheel off the ground a jostled the gearbox into neutral. The tested the clutch and it disengaged. I had been concerned that the clutch was not disengaging. It is, that is good.
I had a look at the new "Ebay" wheels. I am not that impressed. The spokes need a good cleaning and a drive spline on the rear wheel is very worn. I should be able to fit the twin discs but the front wheel but they need to go as a pair. It is quite nice that the disc on the new wheel is a cast iron item. Cast iron discs work better than stainless steel discs as brakes but rust quicker and since the bike will probably sit around, stainless discs are probably the right choice.
It fitted the new seat and it fits properly. I took it off again again and stored it.
Thursday, 4 November 2010
Another Tank
The ebay tank turned out to be a big disappointment. I went to local bike restorer to see what could be done with the tank. There was a lot of teeth sucking. He came back with a number and no promises of the fuel tight tank. I went back on the hunt for a petrol tank. It took a few weeks to locate another one. I did find one but it was a tense time to win the ebay auction. However I go the tank for a very reasonable price. The tank came with a key and tank cap as well two petrol taps which was just as well because the tank was half full of petrol.
I also bagged a seat. It was in good condition. I have fitted it to the bike but it will be coming off again the tidy up the seat base.
I have found where the oil is leaking from, right hand cylinder base. It is going to be a bit of a job to sort it. The clutch is permanently disengaged. I think this might be just the length of the cable. I have decided I am going to get a new oil pressure switch. On the up side I have started the bike a few times and it is fired up without any trouble.
The next big task is to find a painter. H and I have been looking at colour schemes of BMWs. We have decided on gloss black with a cream twin pin stripe in the style of a 75/6.
I also bagged a seat. It was in good condition. I have fitted it to the bike but it will be coming off again the tidy up the seat base.
I have found where the oil is leaking from, right hand cylinder base. It is going to be a bit of a job to sort it. The clutch is permanently disengaged. I think this might be just the length of the cable. I have decided I am going to get a new oil pressure switch. On the up side I have started the bike a few times and it is fired up without any trouble.
The next big task is to find a painter. H and I have been looking at colour schemes of BMWs. We have decided on gloss black with a cream twin pin stripe in the style of a 75/6.
Monday, 11 October 2010
A day of two halves
I had a few hours free on Saturday afternoon. During the week my ebay purchases had arrived, a tank, front brake master cylinder and a head light. I offered the headlight up to the shell and was happy to find it would fit once I had tidied up the wiring in the shell. I set the tank to one side. It look fine when a collected it on Wednesday evening. I stripped the master cylinder of the braided lines and the hand lever cable. In the process I dropped the spacer pin and could not find it. I knew it could not get far. I took the wire brush to the metal body and gave it a good scrub. I finished it off some wire wool. It came up to a fair finish. I had some spray enamel paint in the cupboard so I gave it a few coats, setting it aside between coats to dry. I cleaned the rubber boot. The unit must have been sitting in water for all the rust to be seen. I took the reservoir cap off and was pleased to see uncontaminated brake fluid slowly swishing about. I had picked up a new 70mm Jubilee clip during the day. I place the master cylinder where I thought it should go on the frame and fitted the Jubilee clip to loosely secure it in place. Then I put the rubber tank buffer in place and dry fitted the tank but no matter now a fiddled with the position of the master cylinder and buffer I could not make the tank sit correctly. I took the buffer off and low and behold the tank sat perfectly on the forward and rear tank mounts. I had another look on the floor for the spacer pin and the tank mount finger nut. I found both of them. I did the jubilee clip, fitted spacer pin and did up the hand lever cable. I left the brake light and fluid level sensor disconnected for the time being. Whilst I had the tank off I re-routed the throttle cables. I am get a dab hand at whipping the cable on and off the carbs. The throttle now returns to the shut position, if slowly.
With the master cylinder fitted the tank sat properly on the bike. During the week I had made my mind up to use the existing fuel taps as the ones that came with the ebay tank where rubbish. I took them to pieces and left the parts to soak in a cleaning solution. On Saturday and scrubbed and polished every piece of the two taps and put them back together and fitted them to the new tank. I got the new fuel hose out along with the fuel filters. I polished up the metal tee pieces that make up the balance tube on the fuel lines. I had to loosen the air filter casing yet again to fit the fuel balancing tube. Working from the bottom of each carb I cut the hose and pushed the hose on to the tee. Above the tee came the fuel filter, remembering to fit it in the correct flow direction. Then the last piece of hose on to the union at the bottom of the fuel tap. I did the job on both sides. It was a tight fit including the filters into the lines.
Now for the moment of truth. When I started the bike for the very first time it would not fire or run on the right pot. I hoped it was just a fuel issue which all the work on the tank and taps would resolved. I put petrol into the tank but something was not right. Petrol was pouring out of the bottom of the tank even though the taps were switched off. I put the fuel can down and rush round to far side of the bike. Petrol was gushing out of the top petrol tap union. I tightened it up with spanner but it made no difference. A closer look showed the fuel was coming out of the tank. I picked at the paint which opened flood gates. I managed to catch some of the fuel. when all the petrol was gone I took off the tank and found big hole in the tank which had been covered by paint. There was language! I cleaned up the garage. I had to take up the carpet in the garage and throw it out. It had soaked up the petrol. I opened all the windows and doors in the house, lucky it was a nice day, to rid the house of petrol fumes. H was not impressed when she came home.
I switched over the fuel taps from the "new" tank back onto the old tank. I put the old tank back on the bike, connected the fuel hoses and put some fuel in it. I slipped on the silencer and offered up a small prayer. I turned the key in the ignition, put the choke and thumbed the starter button. In two turns the bike burst into life. What a result. It was running a bit lumpy but after adjusting the throttle cables it was much smoother. I wanted to jump on it and ride away but I have no front brake, seat and a knackered rear wheel bearing. I had to be content blipping the throttle. The down side is that oil is pissing out the oil filer cover. I hope that is nothing but the oil light would not go out. I hope that is a electrical problem.
I am going start a new list on the blog...................jobs to do to finish.
With the master cylinder fitted the tank sat properly on the bike. During the week I had made my mind up to use the existing fuel taps as the ones that came with the ebay tank where rubbish. I took them to pieces and left the parts to soak in a cleaning solution. On Saturday and scrubbed and polished every piece of the two taps and put them back together and fitted them to the new tank. I got the new fuel hose out along with the fuel filters. I polished up the metal tee pieces that make up the balance tube on the fuel lines. I had to loosen the air filter casing yet again to fit the fuel balancing tube. Working from the bottom of each carb I cut the hose and pushed the hose on to the tee. Above the tee came the fuel filter, remembering to fit it in the correct flow direction. Then the last piece of hose on to the union at the bottom of the fuel tap. I did the job on both sides. It was a tight fit including the filters into the lines.
Now for the moment of truth. When I started the bike for the very first time it would not fire or run on the right pot. I hoped it was just a fuel issue which all the work on the tank and taps would resolved. I put petrol into the tank but something was not right. Petrol was pouring out of the bottom of the tank even though the taps were switched off. I put the fuel can down and rush round to far side of the bike. Petrol was gushing out of the top petrol tap union. I tightened it up with spanner but it made no difference. A closer look showed the fuel was coming out of the tank. I picked at the paint which opened flood gates. I managed to catch some of the fuel. when all the petrol was gone I took off the tank and found big hole in the tank which had been covered by paint. There was language! I cleaned up the garage. I had to take up the carpet in the garage and throw it out. It had soaked up the petrol. I opened all the windows and doors in the house, lucky it was a nice day, to rid the house of petrol fumes. H was not impressed when she came home.
I switched over the fuel taps from the "new" tank back onto the old tank. I put the old tank back on the bike, connected the fuel hoses and put some fuel in it. I slipped on the silencer and offered up a small prayer. I turned the key in the ignition, put the choke and thumbed the starter button. In two turns the bike burst into life. What a result. It was running a bit lumpy but after adjusting the throttle cables it was much smoother. I wanted to jump on it and ride away but I have no front brake, seat and a knackered rear wheel bearing. I had to be content blipping the throttle. The down side is that oil is pissing out the oil filer cover. I hope that is nothing but the oil light would not go out. I hope that is a electrical problem.
I am going start a new list on the blog...................jobs to do to finish.
Monday, 4 October 2010
Winning ways
I have secured a couple of good wins on Flea Bay. First I bagged a front brake master cylinder but it comes with the, rubber boot, brake cable and two braided hoses. I was going to get braided lines so that is double bubble. You usually have to pay extra for the weather proofing boot but it was included, so that's good. It was a tense couple of minutes as the auction counted down.
Secondly, I bagged a petrol tank and for just 50 quid. I have been outbid at several auctions on tanks. It looks in good condition. The only downside it is a none standard blue. I was going to paint the tins anyway. I will have to put up with the lurid blue until I can afford for the tins go for paint. I am watching a seat rail and a pannier frame set on Flea bay. If I am lucky I might get those too. So just two big things left to get, a seat and a paint job.
Secondly, I bagged a petrol tank and for just 50 quid. I have been outbid at several auctions on tanks. It looks in good condition. The only downside it is a none standard blue. I was going to paint the tins anyway. I will have to put up with the lurid blue until I can afford for the tins go for paint. I am watching a seat rail and a pannier frame set on Flea bay. If I am lucky I might get those too. So just two big things left to get, a seat and a paint job.