There is some way to go in both time and money but at least now it runs.
Click on the pictures for a larger version.
Sunday 22 November 2009
A picture is worth a thousand words
A picture, rather two pictures are better than a thousand words. The top pictures is where I started. The bottom picture is where we are now.
There is some way to go in both time and money but at least now it runs.
Click on the pictures for a larger version.
There is some way to go in both time and money but at least now it runs.
Click on the pictures for a larger version.
Thursday 19 November 2009
Perhaps the biggest day yet
Last night's triumph has been haunting me all day. Whenever I have had a spare moment I have been thinking about how to get fuel into the bike. When I got home today and after I had my tea [the northern meal taken after work not the hot brown liquid] I went into the garage to way up the possibilities. I had a good look inside the tank and gave it a shake. What I could see of the inside of the tank was rusty. Shaking the tank gave the telltale sounds of flaky rust loose in the bottom of the tank. I thought about when I might get a tank and whether I was prepared to wait that long. The decision was made very quickly.
I had fuel filters in the spares box. I cut down the existing fuel lines to accept the fuel filters. I hoped the filter would keep the smeg from the tank out of the carbs. I then connected the fuel lines up. I had a Jerry can of fuel in the Land Rover. I sploshed a gallon into the tank and checked the petrol taps flowed. One was OK but the other was a bit slow. When turned on the fuel the leaks appeared. After close inspection I found that the bends required in the fuel lines to fit the filter were causing a poor seal to the fuel spigot on the carbs. I took off the carefully made fuel lines and replaced them with the spare fuel hose. No filters this time. I resolved that cleaning the carbs would be a price I was willing to pay if I got the bikes started this evening. I put a bit more fuel in the tank since I did not fit the balance pipe on the temporary fuel lines. I took the float bowls off and checked the float was doing its job. Just as well I checked one float was stuck. It just needed a tap to free it. Float bowls back on. I then dury-rigged and couple of throttle cables with some spare electrical wire. That took a bit of doing but finally got a secure fix. One last deep breath. Then I remembered the spark plugs were not screwed in. That job done and the suppressor caps pushed on I stepped back for a deep breath before the big moment.
I put the choke to full on, switched the ignition on and hit the starter button. The starter motor engaged and engine heaved round and round but it sounded flat. I moved the ignition unit a little and the biked coughed into life but running very lumpy. In fact just one cylinder was firing. I let the engine heat up a little and did the usual sort of tests. I pulled the plug of the cylinder that was not firing. It made no difference which meant that pot was not even tying to fire. I turned the engine off and looked for the spark monitor. I fitted the monitor between the spark plug cap and the spark plug and restarted the engine. The monitor flashed as the spark passed by. The issue must be fuelling. I took off the air inlet tract to the offending carbs. I restarted the bike again and did the old two-stroke trick of putting you hand over the air inlet. Your have to be careful when you do that with a 400cc cylinder. The induction can bend you fingers painfully the wrong way. I noticed the carbs seemed very dry. Engine off, fuel off and the carb dismantled. I cleaned the jet and made sure everything else was working. I had the carbs top off to check the diaphragm. All looked ok. I put the carbs back together and turned the fuel on. I hit the switch again, the engine turned. Using my hand I was able to get the cylinder to fire but only intermittently.
After an 30 minutes of single pot running and one and a half pot running, I stopped. I tidied up and retired to consider the position. Although the bike fired and runs, after a fashion, and that is great, it shows that there are some problems left to sort out. If the carbs are knackered or the wrong ones then it could be expensive to resolve. The mechanicals of the engine sound fine when running which means the engine re-build was a success and that is a major plus point. There is a little oil leak on the sump pan seal. I got about three turns on each of the sump pan bolts. I guess the heat of the running engine made the seal move and the bolts loosen. There is good access to this seal so it should be easy to resolve.
I had fuel filters in the spares box. I cut down the existing fuel lines to accept the fuel filters. I hoped the filter would keep the smeg from the tank out of the carbs. I then connected the fuel lines up. I had a Jerry can of fuel in the Land Rover. I sploshed a gallon into the tank and checked the petrol taps flowed. One was OK but the other was a bit slow. When turned on the fuel the leaks appeared. After close inspection I found that the bends required in the fuel lines to fit the filter were causing a poor seal to the fuel spigot on the carbs. I took off the carefully made fuel lines and replaced them with the spare fuel hose. No filters this time. I resolved that cleaning the carbs would be a price I was willing to pay if I got the bikes started this evening. I put a bit more fuel in the tank since I did not fit the balance pipe on the temporary fuel lines. I took the float bowls off and checked the float was doing its job. Just as well I checked one float was stuck. It just needed a tap to free it. Float bowls back on. I then dury-rigged and couple of throttle cables with some spare electrical wire. That took a bit of doing but finally got a secure fix. One last deep breath. Then I remembered the spark plugs were not screwed in. That job done and the suppressor caps pushed on I stepped back for a deep breath before the big moment.
I put the choke to full on, switched the ignition on and hit the starter button. The starter motor engaged and engine heaved round and round but it sounded flat. I moved the ignition unit a little and the biked coughed into life but running very lumpy. In fact just one cylinder was firing. I let the engine heat up a little and did the usual sort of tests. I pulled the plug of the cylinder that was not firing. It made no difference which meant that pot was not even tying to fire. I turned the engine off and looked for the spark monitor. I fitted the monitor between the spark plug cap and the spark plug and restarted the engine. The monitor flashed as the spark passed by. The issue must be fuelling. I took off the air inlet tract to the offending carbs. I restarted the bike again and did the old two-stroke trick of putting you hand over the air inlet. Your have to be careful when you do that with a 400cc cylinder. The induction can bend you fingers painfully the wrong way. I noticed the carbs seemed very dry. Engine off, fuel off and the carb dismantled. I cleaned the jet and made sure everything else was working. I had the carbs top off to check the diaphragm. All looked ok. I put the carbs back together and turned the fuel on. I hit the switch again, the engine turned. Using my hand I was able to get the cylinder to fire but only intermittently.
After an 30 minutes of single pot running and one and a half pot running, I stopped. I tidied up and retired to consider the position. Although the bike fired and runs, after a fashion, and that is great, it shows that there are some problems left to sort out. If the carbs are knackered or the wrong ones then it could be expensive to resolve. The mechanicals of the engine sound fine when running which means the engine re-build was a success and that is a major plus point. There is a little oil leak on the sump pan seal. I got about three turns on each of the sump pan bolts. I guess the heat of the running engine made the seal move and the bolts loosen. There is good access to this seal so it should be easy to resolve.
Wednesday 18 November 2009
A very, very BIG day
Today was a very big day indeed. Today I had the bike spinning over on the starter button and the spark plugs were sparking. All I need now is some fuel and we could be there!
The delivery I had been waiting for turned up yesterday but I had to go fencing that evening. This evening I had time to fit the new purchases. The wiring sub-loom to the oil pressure switch and neutral switch that came with the bike was shot, all brittle and cracked. I bit the bullet and bought a new one. I took a little bit a fitting as it seems a little long. However I got it fitted but the neutral switch turns out to be damaged. I made a jumper connection to the circuit across the sub-looms connections. I had to clean up the main loom connectors for the sub loom. They went together just fine after cleaning. I hit the starter button again. Just the relay clicking. In then had a look at the connectors for the brakes. I put jumpers across the connectors on the loom. I hit the starter button again. Still the relay clicked. I took the air filter housing off for the umpteenth time. I also took off the starter motor cover. I know that starter motor works. The starter was not turning yet the relay clicked, it meant the power was energising the relay but not getting to the solenoid. Sure enough the wire from the relay to the solenoid was not on properly. I gave the connection a good clean and squeezed the connection grips to give a tight contact. Whilst I was there I fitted the cable tidy that I had bought that fits in front of the starter motor cover. It was a small item but it made a neat job. This time I did not refit the covers. I pushed the spark plugs into their suppressor caps and left them lying on the cylinder heads. Turned the ignition key. Another look at the dash lights. The full set are on so. The neural light is a bit dim but it is on. I pushed the starter button.......the starter engaged and spun the engine and as hoped the spark plugs sparked. Fantastic. The oil pressure light went out and stayed out. That is a good sign. I could not help but give a "woo hoo". If I had petrol and the carbs working then the bike might actually fire up. I am that close. I got H and showed her it spinning. I think she was impressed.
I check everything over again and set about reassembling the bike covers once again. I am not going to tempt fate and say this is the last time I will have to do this. I fitted the air filter housing and refitted the air inlet tracts. I gave the starter another go and it still turned over. It is such a thrill.
One of my other purchases was the gear lever linkage. It took a bit of fiddling to get on but now I can select gear with the lever. I got the special set screws and the rubber cover for the rear brake light switch. It took half an hour to fit the wires through the boot and fix the switch to the bike. Small things but more small steps. I turned out the spares boxes to see what I had in the way of front brake system. It seem I have most of it except the expensive bit, typical. I tidied up and binned the bits I would definitely would not be using. Whilst rearranging the boxes I found a rubber boot that covers the gear lever linkage so I fitted that. H brought in a brew but I was done for the evening.
The delivery I had been waiting for turned up yesterday but I had to go fencing that evening. This evening I had time to fit the new purchases. The wiring sub-loom to the oil pressure switch and neutral switch that came with the bike was shot, all brittle and cracked. I bit the bullet and bought a new one. I took a little bit a fitting as it seems a little long. However I got it fitted but the neutral switch turns out to be damaged. I made a jumper connection to the circuit across the sub-looms connections. I had to clean up the main loom connectors for the sub loom. They went together just fine after cleaning. I hit the starter button again. Just the relay clicking. In then had a look at the connectors for the brakes. I put jumpers across the connectors on the loom. I hit the starter button again. Still the relay clicked. I took the air filter housing off for the umpteenth time. I also took off the starter motor cover. I know that starter motor works. The starter was not turning yet the relay clicked, it meant the power was energising the relay but not getting to the solenoid. Sure enough the wire from the relay to the solenoid was not on properly. I gave the connection a good clean and squeezed the connection grips to give a tight contact. Whilst I was there I fitted the cable tidy that I had bought that fits in front of the starter motor cover. It was a small item but it made a neat job. This time I did not refit the covers. I pushed the spark plugs into their suppressor caps and left them lying on the cylinder heads. Turned the ignition key. Another look at the dash lights. The full set are on so. The neural light is a bit dim but it is on. I pushed the starter button.......the starter engaged and spun the engine and as hoped the spark plugs sparked. Fantastic. The oil pressure light went out and stayed out. That is a good sign. I could not help but give a "woo hoo". If I had petrol and the carbs working then the bike might actually fire up. I am that close. I got H and showed her it spinning. I think she was impressed.
I check everything over again and set about reassembling the bike covers once again. I am not going to tempt fate and say this is the last time I will have to do this. I fitted the air filter housing and refitted the air inlet tracts. I gave the starter another go and it still turned over. It is such a thrill.
One of my other purchases was the gear lever linkage. It took a bit of fiddling to get on but now I can select gear with the lever. I got the special set screws and the rubber cover for the rear brake light switch. It took half an hour to fit the wires through the boot and fix the switch to the bike. Small things but more small steps. I turned out the spares boxes to see what I had in the way of front brake system. It seem I have most of it except the expensive bit, typical. I tidied up and binned the bits I would definitely would not be using. Whilst rearranging the boxes I found a rubber boot that covers the gear lever linkage so I fitted that. H brought in a brew but I was done for the evening.
Saturday 14 November 2009
We have light!
I spent a few hours during the week preparing the wiring. I also went to Maplins after work to buy some wire shrink sleeving and some crimp connectors. Today was really windy and it had been thrashing down all night so it was going to be too wet to go to the lottie. That was handy for me. The perfect excuse to go into the garage.
I set about connecting the wires that I had identified over the past few nights. The bike was a faired bike so I had a little dashboard with a Voltmeter and a Clock. I removed the clocks from the dashboard which was the easy bit. I stripped down the wiring sub-loom being careful to remember which wires went where. I have decided that I would fit the clocks in pods, one either side of the speedo/tacho unit. To do that I had a trim the wires from the sub-loom. I was able to squeeze the three wires for each clock down a shrink sleeve. When I got the sleeve positioned I heated it up which made the sleeve shrink onto the wires making a nice finish. The sleeved wires were then to feed into the headlight shell and connect up the wires.
With things going so well I decided to take a major step, to connect the battery. First the negative lead remembering to pick up the negative lead of the battery charge lead. I then made sure the ignition switch was in the off position. I connected the main positive lead along with positive battery charger lead. There was no smells of burning. I took the big step and turned the ignition switch. Nothing much happened. I saw the glow of the lights on the instrument panel, voltmeter and clock. I found a headlight bulb and put that in its socket. I flicked on, one at a time, the handlebar switches. The front indicators , head light responded to the switches. The ignition light came on as did the panel lights. I tried the starter, the relay clicked but nothing else. I was not surprised really as a number of switches such as neutral, clutch and oil are not connected. These items need to be in place to allow engine to run.
I positioned rear mudguard and plugged in the rear lighting loom. The rear light came on and one of the indicators worked. I am waiting for the lower sub-loom to get the remainder of the plugs hooked up. Perhaps then the engine will spin. It cannot start since there are no provisions for fuel as yet. That the next thing.
I set about connecting the wires that I had identified over the past few nights. The bike was a faired bike so I had a little dashboard with a Voltmeter and a Clock. I removed the clocks from the dashboard which was the easy bit. I stripped down the wiring sub-loom being careful to remember which wires went where. I have decided that I would fit the clocks in pods, one either side of the speedo/tacho unit. To do that I had a trim the wires from the sub-loom. I was able to squeeze the three wires for each clock down a shrink sleeve. When I got the sleeve positioned I heated it up which made the sleeve shrink onto the wires making a nice finish. The sleeved wires were then to feed into the headlight shell and connect up the wires.
With things going so well I decided to take a major step, to connect the battery. First the negative lead remembering to pick up the negative lead of the battery charge lead. I then made sure the ignition switch was in the off position. I connected the main positive lead along with positive battery charger lead. There was no smells of burning. I took the big step and turned the ignition switch. Nothing much happened. I saw the glow of the lights on the instrument panel, voltmeter and clock. I found a headlight bulb and put that in its socket. I flicked on, one at a time, the handlebar switches. The front indicators , head light responded to the switches. The ignition light came on as did the panel lights. I tried the starter, the relay clicked but nothing else. I was not surprised really as a number of switches such as neutral, clutch and oil are not connected. These items need to be in place to allow engine to run.
I positioned rear mudguard and plugged in the rear lighting loom. The rear light came on and one of the indicators worked. I am waiting for the lower sub-loom to get the remainder of the plugs hooked up. Perhaps then the engine will spin. It cannot start since there are no provisions for fuel as yet. That the next thing.
Thursday 12 November 2009
I have had a moment
I have had a eureka moment. All this head scratching, fiddling and headaches with the wiring loom has come together. The final piece of the jigsaw has been sorted out. Sorted in the sense I know where the wires go and what they do. After a great deal of wrestling I got the ignition relay bracket dismantled, cleaned and fitted back on the bike. However it took another three refits before the bracket, connectors and loom finally decided to play ball. It is cold in the garage so the wiring loom is stiff which is not helping. I am sure the stiffness is due, in part, to the age of wiring. Things will be much better when I get big cable ties to hold the main wiring harness in position. I also discovered where to route the loom round the rear down tubes onto the rear brake light. As soon as the screws for securing the brake light switch turn up and are fitted I will secure the cables to the frame.
It is odd but the wiring looms seems to be from a US spec bike. The wiring diagram on my wall has the UK and US wiring options marked. I keep coming across spares wires that seem to be for the US spec elements. The US elements just do things like keeping riding lights on. I guess as long as the bike with runs and the lights work in a UK style I can discard the US wiring elements. [touch wood]. Lets hope I do not regret making this statement.
It is odd but the wiring looms seems to be from a US spec bike. The wiring diagram on my wall has the UK and US wiring options marked. I keep coming across spares wires that seem to be for the US spec elements. The US elements just do things like keeping riding lights on. I guess as long as the bike with runs and the lights work in a UK style I can discard the US wiring elements. [touch wood]. Lets hope I do not regret making this statement.
Monday 9 November 2009
A quiet evening in
100 channels of TV and nothing to watch. Luckily I have other things to entertain me. I found the breather pipe for the bean can and fitted it. I knew it was in one of the boxes. I wanted to finish off installing the Boyer B ignition. I had to fit the coils so that I could position the ignition unit. The connectors on the coils were grubby so I dismantled them, gave then a good clean and put the back on. Having fitted the coils I discovered I had the earth strap on the wrong side of the bike. Most of the wiring harness seems to go the left hand side of the spine tube. Repositioning the earth strap made the other wires from the coils drop into place. I figured that the work on the top of the engine was done so to make the bike look a bit more together I fitted the engine top cover and refitted, for the umpteenth time, the air cleaner casings.
I remembered that the rear brake switch was located on the right side of the frame down by the swing arm pivot. I remembered the switch was pretty grubby. I spent fifteen minutes cleaning the switch and connectors. I tested the switch with my new multimeter. I found it was working, switch and multimeter. I trimmed back the damaged end of the lead and made a new connection. I could not find the screws to secure the switch so they have been added to the "want list". The plug that connects into the looms was corroded but I managed to clean it. Another continuity test showed that leg was working. I offered the loom up and did a dry fit of the wiring. It looks OK.
I still have a few too many loose ends on the loom. However there are less than before. I guess I just have to keep tracking and connecting switches and tags until they are all connected or what remains can be taped up and hidden in the loom.
I have to turn the bike round, on the stand, as the starter relay and other relays are fitted on the left side of the frame. If I can get this bit of wiring sorted then I will well on my way to getting the bike started. I might even put the handlebars on. I got a lot done in two and half hours.
I remembered that the rear brake switch was located on the right side of the frame down by the swing arm pivot. I remembered the switch was pretty grubby. I spent fifteen minutes cleaning the switch and connectors. I tested the switch with my new multimeter. I found it was working, switch and multimeter. I trimmed back the damaged end of the lead and made a new connection. I could not find the screws to secure the switch so they have been added to the "want list". The plug that connects into the looms was corroded but I managed to clean it. Another continuity test showed that leg was working. I offered the loom up and did a dry fit of the wiring. It looks OK.
I still have a few too many loose ends on the loom. However there are less than before. I guess I just have to keep tracking and connecting switches and tags until they are all connected or what remains can be taped up and hidden in the loom.
I have to turn the bike round, on the stand, as the starter relay and other relays are fitted on the left side of the frame. If I can get this bit of wiring sorted then I will well on my way to getting the bike started. I might even put the handlebars on. I got a lot done in two and half hours.
Monday 2 November 2009
A Tiny Job
When ferreting about the in the box the charging and ignition kit came in I found the small packet that contained the float bowl seals. I knew I had ordered them and had in fact seen them but I could not find them all summer long. It took less than five minutes to fit both the seals. I just had to ping off the float bowl retaining clip on each carb, drop out the bowl, position the seal, reposition the bowl and refit the clip. Another job ticked off.
Boyer Bransden
I have always wanted a Boyer Bransden electronic ignition system. It was fairly expensive but I hope for great things from the unit, not least of which is not having to set the points every couple of weeks. Click HERE for the Boyer Bransden website.
I read the instructions through several time during the summer but without actually doing as the instruction said it was hard to figure what they where talking about. I got a brew and a stool and laid out all the bits on the bike lift. The ignition unit on the BM is the "Bean Can" type. I followed the instructions to dismantle the inner gubbins of the bean can. There is no way anything was going back in that can once it have it out. It would just be too fiddly. I followed the instructions very closely. Some items did not seem to work but it is Boyer B kit so it should work. After another brew the penny dropped. I rubbed a file though one of the locator recesses and the rotor just slipped in against the pins as per the instructions. After that it was plain sailing. When I got the Boyer B kit installed in the bean can I took the wire wool to the body of the can and polished it up. It is never going to be concourse condition bike but it will be serviceable. I greased the bearings and fitted the bean can into the eccentric drive off the big end shaft. It is a neat fit. Let us hope the oil seal is good and keeps the oil off the alternator.
The next job is to fit the coils, position the electronic ignition box and run the wires.
I read the instructions through several time during the summer but without actually doing as the instruction said it was hard to figure what they where talking about. I got a brew and a stool and laid out all the bits on the bike lift. The ignition unit on the BM is the "Bean Can" type. I followed the instructions to dismantle the inner gubbins of the bean can. There is no way anything was going back in that can once it have it out. It would just be too fiddly. I followed the instructions very closely. Some items did not seem to work but it is Boyer B kit so it should work. After another brew the penny dropped. I rubbed a file though one of the locator recesses and the rotor just slipped in against the pins as per the instructions. After that it was plain sailing. When I got the Boyer B kit installed in the bean can I took the wire wool to the body of the can and polished it up. It is never going to be concourse condition bike but it will be serviceable. I greased the bearings and fitted the bean can into the eccentric drive off the big end shaft. It is a neat fit. Let us hope the oil seal is good and keeps the oil off the alternator.
The next job is to fit the coils, position the electronic ignition box and run the wires.
The Year Turns
The BM has been siting on the stand all summer. It has been used as a rack, a support, it has got in the way. I have been thinking about what I shall do once the summer tasks have finished and the weather is too wet to go outside at the weekend. Last weekend the clocks went back to GMT [Greenwich Mean Time]. That means it gets darker earlier, however the weather is still quite warm. Warm enough to go into the garage at night and tinker with the bike. I have had the new charging and ignition gear since February. I have had the bits out of the boxes and bags several times. I even read the instructions a couple of times.
I started tentatively by disconnecting the battery. Then I fitted the beefy rectifier. The thing that has held me up in the state of the cover for the alternator. The old alternator was covered in oily grim. I needed something to get it off but I was not happy about using a smelly degreaser. I was in Halfords one day and came across a Lemon scented degreaser. I took a punt and bought a tin. True to the label on the tin the contents smelled of Lemon. H came in to see what I was doing. She said the air smelt zesty. I passed the test. I can carry on cleaning without stinking the house out. I bagged some wire wool and having degreased the cover plate I polished the surface with the wire wool. It has come up nice. I then had to tackle the tricky bit.
The next task was to connect the three wires leading from the alternator windings [The stator] to the distribution block. The block received the wires from the rectifier. It was a right beggar to position all the bits to solder the ends to the distribution block without cremating everything in site. After a false start, leaving things overnight and coming back with more patience, I managed to complete that task. Once the distribution block was fitted the other connectors and brush set were fitted to the plate. It was then a matter of fitting the rotor to the bike, easy enough, but then the stator and cover plate has to fit over the rotor. It was a bit fiddly to get the brushes to locate onto commutator but I remembered a tip. Place some card between the brushes and the commutator. The brushes, which are spring loaded, just slide over the card making the job much easier. I finally got the stator positioned and secured. It was a mile stone to connect up the wires of the charging circuit.
There was another job to do. The bike would normally have a mechanical regulator. The old one was junked for a solid state item. The new item went straight onto the bracket on the right side of the frame and accepted the block connector.It took longer to select the bolts than fit the item.
I started tentatively by disconnecting the battery. Then I fitted the beefy rectifier. The thing that has held me up in the state of the cover for the alternator. The old alternator was covered in oily grim. I needed something to get it off but I was not happy about using a smelly degreaser. I was in Halfords one day and came across a Lemon scented degreaser. I took a punt and bought a tin. True to the label on the tin the contents smelled of Lemon. H came in to see what I was doing. She said the air smelt zesty. I passed the test. I can carry on cleaning without stinking the house out. I bagged some wire wool and having degreased the cover plate I polished the surface with the wire wool. It has come up nice. I then had to tackle the tricky bit.
The next task was to connect the three wires leading from the alternator windings [The stator] to the distribution block. The block received the wires from the rectifier. It was a right beggar to position all the bits to solder the ends to the distribution block without cremating everything in site. After a false start, leaving things overnight and coming back with more patience, I managed to complete that task. Once the distribution block was fitted the other connectors and brush set were fitted to the plate. It was then a matter of fitting the rotor to the bike, easy enough, but then the stator and cover plate has to fit over the rotor. It was a bit fiddly to get the brushes to locate onto commutator but I remembered a tip. Place some card between the brushes and the commutator. The brushes, which are spring loaded, just slide over the card making the job much easier. I finally got the stator positioned and secured. It was a mile stone to connect up the wires of the charging circuit.
There was another job to do. The bike would normally have a mechanical regulator. The old one was junked for a solid state item. The new item went straight onto the bracket on the right side of the frame and accepted the block connector.It took longer to select the bolts than fit the item.