A problem sorted

I have been having a lot of trouble getting the brake rotors to line up with the callipers. I had a chat with the chaps at Motorworks about fork yokes. Click HERE for their website. They suggested I took some pictures and email to them. Well....I got the camera out and went into the garage. I had a hard look at the forks to try and work out where the problem is. I have done this several times before. The difference is that this times the penny dropped. 

I am ashamed to reveal I had put the forks on back to front. The fix was easy enough to do. Seat off, Tanks off, front wheel out, mudguard off, callipers off, handle bars off and finally the forks. The big fork end bolts had to come off then I undid the bottom yoke pinch bolts. I knocked a wedge in the pinch bolt slot which opened the yokes to make removing the stanchions. I swapped the stanchions over and started to reassemble the front of the bike. Whilst I had the fork leg top out  I took the opportunity to fit the auxiliary instrument pods brackets which fit on the top of the top yoke and held in place by the top yoke bolt. I put the handle bars back on which was a bit fiddly. Then I jacked the stand up to put the mud guard at a easy working height. Then the bike was jacked up to the top level to fit the wheel. The wheel went on but the brake rotors still did line up correctly. It was not out by much. Whilst have a chin scratch I saw that I had left in the spacers between the rotor  and the wheel body. I took off the discs and removed the spacers. Then a few minutes later the discs were bolted back in place. It was no surprise that the wheel slipped into place between the fork legs and neatly into the callipers. The wheel spindle was fitted and the pinch bolt nipped up. It took a few minutes the adjust the eccentric cams within the callipers. The wheels and brakes now spin freely. I finished off by topping up the battery electrolyte, refitting the tank and the seat. 

That is the last of the mechanical jobs. I have an electrical problem to fix. Then just a small job to fit a instrument pod but I am not which pod is to house.

Side Panels

I picked up the final few bits and pieces that matter. I have a new favorite supplier, SAS in Shepshed. Click HERE for website. I had to file out the middle of the copper washer for the sump plug because I could not get the exact one. Given the alternative of waiting until late next week it was worth a bit of Dremell action. With the washer filed out to the exact size and sump plug refitted, I topped up the engine oil and then gave the sump plug an extra tweak. I was pleased to find it was not leaking.

Next up was to fill each suspension leg with the right amount of oil. Many years ago I picked up a 60mm syringe. It is just the job for measuring out the oil and for squirting the oil into the tiny filler hole on the top of the suspension leg. 230mm in each leg later, filler caps replaced and top covers tapped on, that job was done too. I had to cut cable ties that held the wires from each switch cluster in order to get access to the top of the suspension legs. It was a small job to refit the cable ties once the oil top up was completed.

I had bought an auxillary power socket some time ago. I decided today was the day to fit it. It went on well enough but it was a fiddle to route and connect the wires. I had to find a longer bolt for the battery terminal to accept the additional connectors. That job done I replaced the tool tray. The wires made the tray fit a little more snug.

The next job was to fit the clutch side hand grip. I wound a couple of turns of insulating tape round the handle bar and forced the grip on. It went on nice and tight but I can see it being a bugger to get off when I decide to connect the heater elements.

After that it was a nuts and bolts check. I moved the Landy so I could get the bike out of the garage. With the bike on the drive, choke lever engaged, I thumbed the starter button the engine turned over but it would not fire. I bit of coaxing and it did fire but just on the one cylinder. I bit of thought then a removed the float bowl from the none firing cylinder to find it was dry...no petrol. I was quite chuffed as I thought the engine sounded short of gas rather than short of spark. I flipped the floats a couple of time which made the petrol flow. I quickly replaced the float bowl since petrol was p*ssing out all over the drive. I thumbed the starter button again and this time she fired. The BM ran strongly if lumpy. The carbs definitely need balancing.

I pulled the clutch lever in and tried to engage a gear but nothing happened. I engaged a gear and dropped the clutch but the back wheel did not turn. I ran up the gear box and down again without success. I imagine all kinds of issues, incorrect clutch installation, iffy gearbox. I put those thoughts to the back of my mind and got a couple of spanners to adjust the free play on the clutch actuator rod. That did the trick. With the engine now idling off the choke I took a chance, dropped the bike off the stand. hooked first gear, revs and clutch out. As with all BM's off this vintage the torque lifted the bike and we were off. Just to the top of the street and back. A result. A couple of issue became apparent but the key thing is the bike runs, suspension and brakes work, and the bike feels quite balanced i.e. the wheels are in line. As it has been raining today and I spilled some petrol. The drive is covered with rainbow patches of petrol. It is still raining so the patches will wash off.

After my tentative trip to the top of the street I adjusted the back brake then left the bike to idle on the drive. The bike was up to temperature. The bike idled evenly over the twenty minutes it stood there. A checked over the bike afterwards to find, more accurately not to find any leaks. I gave the sump plug an eighth of a turn to stop the last little bit of an oil drip.

Asa final act I got the side panel down and fitted each one. The near side panel required my to remove the hand grip from the frame. . It was th work of a moment. With the tricky panel sorted I fitted the off-side panel too and hooked the rubber band between them. Job done th e bike was put back on the stand and a final job list created.

A quickie

Having sorted out the items on the near side of the bike I had to turn it around again. It was really heavy again. Only when I got the bike back on the stand did I find out that the rear tyre was flat. I pumped it up to 35 psi. I will check it again in a few days to see if it held pressure.

I had a quick look at the bevel box. I cleaned and refitted the drain plug. I knew I had SAE90 oil in the cupboard. I checked the amount of oil in the carton. It was exactly the amount that is required by the bevel box. I filled the bevel box and fitted the filler plug.

Whilst had a minute I tightened up the bolts for the off side horn. I also cable tied the sleeved cables up to the clutch switch block.

Rear mud guard

I had a painting session. I got some spray enamel and the exhaust hangers, rear mud guard spreaders and and the brake lines. I had previously washed the braided lines withe Swafega which brought them up a treat. I created a sort of spray both and gave the items four or five coats of paint during the evening. By the time I go to them late the next day they were completely dry. I offered up he rear mud guard. No surprise it was a good fit. I sorted out the right length Stainless bolts, washers and nuts. It was just a case of fiddling under the mud guard to place the nuts and tighten them up. Next I fitted the indicator bar and the rear/brake light cowl. I rooted out the rear mud flap and rear/brake light lens. I gave them a wash and set then aside.

I tighten up the bolts on the rear suspension. I took ten minutes to polish up the panniers frames. The previous owner had lacquered the frames but now it has yellowed. I think I have a job on there.

I go the front brake calipers out of the box and dry fitted them. The brake lines are ready. I just need to get the brake pads.

More Wheel Bearings

I had a brain wave this evening. Took off the bevel drive and put the rear wheel on the bench. With the wheel off and dust covers out the bevel fitted perfectly on the wheel. I put the bevel back on the bike and offered up the wheel again. It still was a good fit. I took the wheel off and fitted the inner bearing and re-fitted the wheel. Again a good fit. Wheel off. This time I added the oil seal and re-fitted the wheel. Eureka!.....play. So now I know where the issue is. There seems to be few options for sizes of dust seals. I will have a chat with the parts suppliers to see what can be done.

I have also order the instrument pods that will house the volt meter and clock. Hopefully I will have them before the weekend.

I accidentally hit the start button whilst moving the bike; the ignition key was in the on position whilst I checked the volt meter reading, and the bike burst into life. So now the bike wants to run.

Oil Leak

The right hand cylinder base has been pouring out oil during the recent hot running. I thought it was the oil pressure switch but I tracked it back to the cylinder base. The join does not have a gasket. It a machined face to face fit with rubber "O" ring. Whatever the oil tight mechanism it was not working. I dismantled the cylinder from the engine block and cleaned up all the oil. When it was all clean and oil free I squeezed on a liquid gasket and re-assembled the cylinder. As expect the oil rings where fiddly but I preserved and got them engaged. After that it was just a question of doing up all the nuts and bolts, refitting the carbs for the umpteenth time. However the tappets needed adjusting. I read the manual for the clearance but could I find it? I had to come in from the garage, get cleaned up and go on the Internet for the measurement. Having found the settings I went back to the garage and set the tappets clearances. When the engine is new the clearances should 0.05mm greater than for a run in engine. Since I had the right cylinder of it was easy to set the tappets. Having finished that side I went round to the other side, took of the rocker cover and reset the tappets which I considered too tight. I put the rocker cover back on and tidied up.

I drained the petrol off the old tank into the new tank and fitted the new tank to the bike for the first time. It fitted as you would expect. I still need a rubber for the front tank mount.

Whilst turning the engine over by hand spotted the back wheel was going round. I jacked the back wheel off the ground a jostled the gearbox into neutral. The tested the clutch and it disengaged. I had been concerned that the clutch was not disengaging. It is, that is good.

I had a look at the new "Ebay" wheels. I am not that impressed. The spokes need a good cleaning and a drive spline on the rear wheel is very worn. I should be able to fit the twin discs but the front wheel but they need to go as a pair. It is quite nice that the disc on the new wheel is a cast iron item. Cast iron discs work better than stainless steel discs as brakes but rust quicker and since the bike will probably sit around, stainless discs are probably the right choice.

It fitted the new seat and it fits properly. I took it off again again and stored it.

A day of two halves

I had a few hours free on Saturday afternoon. During the week my ebay purchases had arrived, a tank, front brake master cylinder and a head light. I offered the headlight up to the shell and was happy to find it would fit once I had tidied up the wiring in the shell. I set the tank to one side. It look fine when a collected it on Wednesday evening. I stripped the master cylinder of the braided lines and the hand lever cable. In the process I dropped the spacer pin and could not find it. I knew it could not get far. I took the wire brush to the metal body and gave it a good scrub. I finished it off some wire wool. It came up to a fair finish. I had some spray enamel paint in the cupboard so I gave it a few coats, setting it aside between coats to dry. I cleaned the rubber boot. The unit must have been sitting in water for all the rust to be seen. I took the reservoir cap off and was pleased to see uncontaminated brake fluid slowly swishing about. I had picked up a new 70mm Jubilee clip during the day. I place the master cylinder where I thought it should go on the frame and fitted the Jubilee clip to loosely secure it in place. Then I put the rubber tank buffer in place and dry fitted the tank but no matter now a fiddled with the position of the master cylinder and buffer I could not make the tank sit correctly. I took the buffer off and low and behold the tank sat perfectly on the forward and rear tank mounts. I had another look on the floor for the spacer pin and the tank mount finger nut. I found both of them. I did the jubilee clip, fitted spacer pin and did up the hand lever cable. I left the brake light and fluid level sensor disconnected for the time being. Whilst I had the tank off I re-routed the throttle cables. I am get a dab hand at whipping the cable on and off the carbs. The throttle now returns to the shut position, if slowly.

With the master cylinder fitted the tank sat properly on the bike. During the week I had made my mind up to use the existing fuel taps as the ones that came with the ebay tank where rubbish. I took them to pieces and left the parts to soak in a cleaning solution. On Saturday and scrubbed and polished every piece of the two taps and put them back together and fitted them to the new tank. I got the new fuel hose out along with the fuel filters. I polished up the metal tee pieces that make up the balance tube on the fuel lines. I had to loosen the air filter casing yet again to fit the fuel balancing tube. Working from the bottom of each carb I cut the hose and pushed the hose on to the tee. Above the tee came the fuel filter, remembering to fit it in the correct flow direction. Then the last piece of hose on to the union at the bottom of the fuel tap. I did the job on both sides. It was a tight fit including the filters into the lines.

Now for the moment of truth. When I started the bike for the very first time it would not fire or run on the right pot. I hoped it was just a fuel issue which all the work on the tank and taps would resolved. I put petrol into the tank but something was not right. Petrol was pouring out of the bottom of the tank even though the taps were switched off. I put the fuel can down and rush round to far side of the bike. Petrol was gushing out of the top petrol tap union. I tightened it up with spanner but it made no difference. A closer look showed the fuel was coming out of the tank. I picked at the paint which opened flood gates. I managed to catch some of the fuel. when all the petrol was gone I took off the tank and found big hole in the tank which had been covered by paint. There was language! I cleaned up the garage. I had to take up the carpet in the garage and throw it out. It had soaked up the petrol. I opened all the windows and doors in the house, lucky it was a nice day, to rid the house of petrol fumes. H was not impressed when she came home.

I switched over the fuel taps from the "new" tank back onto the old tank. I put the old tank back on the bike, connected the fuel hoses and put some fuel in it. I slipped on the silencer and offered up a small prayer. I turned the key in the ignition, put the choke and thumbed the starter button. In two turns the bike burst into life. What a result. It was running a bit lumpy but after adjusting the throttle cables it was much smoother. I wanted to jump on it and ride away but I have no front brake, seat and a knackered rear wheel bearing. I had to be content blipping the throttle. The down side is that oil is pissing out the oil filer cover. I hope that is nothing but the oil light would not go out. I hope that is a electrical problem.

I am going start a new list on the blog...................jobs to do to finish.

A very, very BIG day

Today was a very big day indeed. Today I had the bike spinning over on the starter button and the spark plugs were sparking. All I need now is some fuel and we could be there!

The delivery I had been waiting for turned up yesterday but I had to go fencing that evening. This evening I had time to fit the new purchases. The wiring sub-loom to the oil pressure switch and neutral switch that came with the bike was shot, all brittle and cracked. I bit the bullet and bought a new one. I took a little bit a fitting as it seems a little long. However I got it fitted but the neutral switch turns out to be damaged. I made a jumper connection to the circuit across the sub-looms connections. I had to clean up the main loom connectors for the sub loom. They went together just fine after cleaning. I hit the starter button again. Just the relay clicking. In then had a look at the connectors for the brakes. I put jumpers across the connectors on the loom. I hit the starter button again. Still the relay clicked. I took the air filter housing off for the umpteenth time. I also took off the starter motor cover. I know that starter motor works. The starter was not turning yet the relay clicked, it meant the power was energising the relay but not getting to the solenoid. Sure enough the wire from the relay to the solenoid was not on properly. I gave the connection a good clean and squeezed the connection grips to give a tight contact. Whilst I was there I fitted the cable tidy that I had bought that fits in front of the starter motor cover. It was a small item but it made a neat job. This time I did not refit the covers. I pushed the spark plugs into their suppressor caps and left them lying on the cylinder heads. Turned the ignition key. Another look at the dash lights. The full set are on so. The neural light is a bit dim but it is on. I pushed the starter button.......the starter engaged and spun the engine and as hoped the spark plugs sparked. Fantastic. The oil pressure light went out and stayed out. That is a good sign. I could not help but give a "woo hoo". If I had petrol and the carbs working then the bike might actually fire up. I am that close. I got H and showed her it spinning. I think she was impressed.
I check everything over again and set about reassembling the bike covers once again. I am not going to tempt fate and say this is the last time I will have to do this. I fitted the air filter housing and refitted the air inlet tracts. I gave the starter another go and it still turned over. It is such a thrill.

One of my other purchases was the gear lever linkage. It took a bit of fiddling to get on but now I can select gear with the lever. I got the special set screws and the rubber cover for the rear brake light switch. It took half an hour to fit the wires through the boot and fix the switch to the bike. Small things but more small steps. I turned out the spares boxes to see what I had in the way of front brake system. It seem I have most of it except the expensive bit, typical. I tidied up and binned the bits I would definitely would not be using. Whilst rearranging the boxes I found a rubber boot that covers the gear lever linkage so I fitted that. H brought in a brew but I was done for the evening.

It turns!!

Today I had a chat with a bloke who knows something about BMs. He suggested I needed to put power on to both the solenoid feed and the main power lead to the starter motor. Do you know what? He was right. The starter motor spun beautifully. I refitted the starter motor and hooked up the cables. I tested it again once fitted. Again it work and this time cranked the engine over (with the spark plugs out). It was fantastic to have the motor spinning under the starter.

I cleaned up the breather hoses and refitted them and finally and hopefully for the last time fitted the air cleaner. I slipped on the engine top cover which means I only have the front cover to fit, once the new alternator is fitted, to have the engine/gearbox complete. It is starting to look like a bike.

This flurry of activity only took an hour so I looked round for a small job. The choke lever assembly caught my eye. I took the assembly to bits making sure that little bits inside did not ping off in the dark recesses of the garage. Off came the cables too. I even took the cables apart. I dunked everything in a bath of WD40 and got the tooth brush busy. Having dried off the bits the worst bits were given the wire brush treatment and back round the WD40 route. The cables were pretty grimy but shooting WD down the sleeve and running the inner cable back and forth and another blast of WD soon had thing clean and running free. Then the tricky bit.... re-assembly. Just to make things interesting everything was covered in grease. Then the cables are fitted to their respective tooth drives. Each tooth drive is located in to its own tunnel. Then it just a matter of lining up the tooth drives equally and fitting the geared lever. Easy? Nope, an extra hand and X-ray vision would have been handy however half and hour later I managed to get everything positioned just long enough to get the circular springs fitted and locked together with the cover and set screw. Then it just has to be fitted to the bike. Guess where it goes? On the left side of the air filter housing. So off came the air filter housing again whilst the choke lever was fitted to it. Putting the housing back on was a bit of a faff. I had to loosen most of the cover bolts again and remove the top cover so that I could get the breather pipe in to position in the left air filter housing. Then put in all back together again...........again.

So here is a picture of where I am up to. Click on it for a big picture.



It is going to be a while before I can afford the major electrical components so I had a think about what to do next. H brought a brew in which was very timely. I few minutes of pondering led me to the carbs. They are bound to be a pain but there are two pairs of carbs in the box. I got them out and tried to figure out which pair was the best. The better looking of the pair had the screw end of the pilot jet snapped off. The other pair where very grimy but at least nothing is broken. I picked the grimy pairs as the ones for the bike and squirted WD40 all over the insides of the carbs and set them to one side. Time to let the WD do its thing. I have to figure out if I know anyone with a parts washer. Predictably, I do but will he be in at the weekend?

We are on a roll

Steering head complete and time still available I look to see what else I can do. The steering damper looks like a job I can do. I ratched the damper out of the box of bits and give it the wire brush treatment. I grease the innards and offere it up to the bike. The damper fits on the underside the bottom yoke. The dampers selector is a long pin with a toothed gear on the bottom that goes through the middle of the the steering column. It took about four goes to get the selector gear to engage in the damper so that he indicator at the rider ends properly represented the amount of damping. I did it in the end without much ado. I then had to route the wiring loom around the piston element of the damper and secure the fixed end of the damper piston the location lug on the frame. Another job sorted.

Whilst we are on a roll a thought I would fit the instrument panel to the top yoke. I had to put the top yoke on so that the steering damper could be fitted. The instruments or "clocks" fit to the top yoke. It was like aerobics. There are so many bushes, washers and nuts that one needs eight fingers on each hands. No room for more hands. After some buggering about and retrieving the said bushes, washers and nuts from the floor several times, the clocks were on. I put the handlebar risers on was well but more to make sure there was room for the risers and to make sure I had the necessary nuts and washers. It means there are less things in the box. Since the clocks were in situ I routed the wiring harness for the clocks around the head stock and up to the back of the clocks were the connector just slipped in. Getting the head stock done means I can start to rationalise the wiring around the head lamp shell. I have tied the left and right hand switch gear cables around the clocks so the head lamp shell is in more or less the right position.

Get the hammer out!

The weather today stopped me going to the allotment. This gave me space to deal with the welded on bottom steering head bearing. I got the work mate out along with the angle grinder and assorted hammer and chisels. I cut into the bearing with the grinder on a diagonal line so as not to hit the soft Aluminium yoke with the disc. The bearing was very hard material as you would expect. I tickled away at the cut for a couple of minutes checking all the time to make sure the yoke was not touched. When I judged I was half way through I put the yoke on the floor, selected a small and narrow cold chisel, positioned it carefully on the edge of the cut and after a few tentative swings gave it an almighty whack. Instantly I could tell something had given. I looked carefully and saw a hairline crack along the face of the bearing. Another gentle tap confirmed the bearing was broken and loose. It was an easy job the remove what was left of the bearing.


Next I had to clean up the yoke. It was stained with burned on grease an oil from when I tried the heat the bearing to release it. Fifteen minutes with the wire brush and wire wool brought the Aluminium up as bright as new. The next step is to get the new bottom bearing on the steering pin. I remembered to fit the dust seal first. I oiled the pin and inside face of the bearing and dropped the bearing over the pin. It just dropped down the bearing location for the top steering head bearing. It was not a push fit i had hoped for. I got the hammer out again and a flat drift. I gently tapped the bearing down the pin with and hammer and drift. I started tentatively but got progressively forceful. Just then the bearing was over the top bearing location and slipped down the pin to just above the bottom bearing location. More tapping with the hammer and drift brought the bearing home. Next off, a good dollop of grease onto the bearing and work it into the rollers. I got the top bearing and smothered that in grease too. Now I have two greased up bearings and fingers covered in grease. I push the bottom yoke the pin through the head stock Now then, there is nothing the hold the yoke into the steering head so one hand has to keep the upward pressure whist the other drops the drops the top bearing over the exposed top of the pin. Then cones the top dust cover then the securing nut. The top bearing does not want to push onto the seat so the nut has to be cranked down to push the bearing home. Not so bad if the nut was a conventional hexagonal nut. This "nut" is a disc that needs a "C" spanner. I have one but not of the correct radius. With some extra dexterity I get the bearing all the way home. As I said before too much force damages the bearing. I get away with it. The steering head is complete and it feels right. No slop and over free movement. Another job down.

It's a rolling chassis

This evening was the first opportunity to really do some work on the bike. I resolved to get the bike to a rolling chassis stage. In fact I managed a bit more than that in the two hours of fettling.

First I winched the bike into the air from brackets I have fitted in the garage rafters for just such an occasion. Once the front was off the ground at about the attitude of the bike if it had wheels, I was able to kick down the main stand. Given that swing arm and rear wheel were fitted, the bike just sat there resting on the back wheel. The sling was removed. Next I offered up the stanchions. It was going to be a tight fit through the lower yolk. I sprung the yolk for each leg in turn. This made slipping the stanchion through very easy. As soon as the yolk was allowed back to its natural position it gripped the stanchion sufficiently to prevent it moving. Next on was the front wheel. Without springs in the stanchion it is easy to move the stanchions to the right position to offer the wheel pin through the bottom of the stanchion and through the wheel hub. As usual the spacer meant you really need a third hand so that you push the pin, hold the spacers and position the other stanchion. With a bit of faffing about I managed it. Then I dropped in the shorter set of springs in the stanchions and did up the top caps. That was the front mocked up.

The next job was to fit the rear sub-frame and suspension. Whilst rummaging for the sub-frame bolts I found the clutch actuating pin. More about that later. I fitted the sub-frame with the bolts provided and than tried the suspension units. I could not find the right bolts for the top or bottom mounts. I settled for some that were a little too long. I will have to get the correct once before it goes on the road but it will do for now. Having the chassis rolling means I can move it about easily and it means I have less things lying about the garage.

In my hurry to fit the swing arm I over looked that the clutch actuating pin was not fitted. The swing arm covers the back of the gearbox where the clutch is operated. The clutch pin goes right through the gear box so is about eight inches long. To fit it the swing arm has to be removed. It is not a big job once the suspension is fitted. I just whipped off the back wheel and took out the swing arm pivots and eased the swing arm and bevel box backwards. The suspension legs supported the weight and limited the amount of movement. Once that was done it was a five second job to position the pin. Whilst is was there I fitted the associated thrust bearings and actuator arm. I adjusted the slack out and squeezed the actuator arm. It moved freely and I could feel the clutch springs responding. I fitted the universal joint boot whilst he swing arm was out and tightened up the battery carrier mounts. The swing arm was refitted as was the rear wheel. In refitting the rear wheel I noticed some movement round the axle. Close inspection showed the bearings were damaged or worn out. Something else for the parts list.

Now the bike looks like this:



This will be the biggest leap forward. From now on it will small steps as missing parts are sourced. I had another rummage and tidy up of the contents of the boxes that came with the bike. I am still trying to assess what is missing. I found home round the garage for the bits and pieces that will not be fitted for a while. I even had a look at the wiring loom. It is a monster and I can not find the ignition switch. I have the key!?