I had to move the bike today. I started the bike up by putting the choke full on, turn the petrol taps on and hit the starter button. The engine turned over many times before it reluctantly chugged into life, one cylinder at a time. Once running it chugged along. The carbs are badly in need of balancing and when they are in balance it should run much more smoothly. I have bought a strobe timing light and need to use it on the bike to tweak the ignition. That too will make the bike run smoother.
Oil started dribbling onto the floor from the bike as it warmed up. I had a look. It was easy to spot the leak. The gasket on the oil filter cover is leaking. I will have to let the engine cool down before I start that job.
Showing posts with label Fluids. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fluids. Show all posts
Sunday, 16 October 2011
Monday, 30 May 2011
Side Panels
I picked up the final few bits and pieces that matter. I have a new favorite supplier, SAS in Shepshed. Click HERE for website. I had to file out the middle of the copper washer for the sump plug because I could not get the exact one. Given the alternative of waiting until late next week it was worth a bit of Dremell action. With the washer filed out to the exact size and sump plug refitted, I topped up the engine oil and then gave the sump plug an extra tweak. I was pleased to find it was not leaking.
Next up was to fill each suspension leg with the right amount of oil. Many years ago I picked up a 60mm syringe. It is just the job for measuring out the oil and for squirting the oil into the tiny filler hole on the top of the suspension leg. 230mm in each leg later, filler caps replaced and top covers tapped on, that job was done too. I had to cut cable ties that held the wires from each switch cluster in order to get access to the top of the suspension legs. It was a small job to refit the cable ties once the oil top up was completed.
I had bought an auxillary power socket some time ago. I decided today was the day to fit it. It went on well enough but it was a fiddle to route and connect the wires. I had to find a longer bolt for the battery terminal to accept the additional connectors. That job done I replaced the tool tray. The wires made the tray fit a little more snug.
The next job was to fit the clutch side hand grip. I wound a couple of turns of insulating tape round the handle bar and forced the grip on. It went on nice and tight but I can see it being a bugger to get off when I decide to connect the heater elements.
After that it was a nuts and bolts check. I moved the Landy so I could get the bike out of the garage. With the bike on the drive, choke lever engaged, I thumbed the starter button the engine turned over but it would not fire. I bit of coaxing and it did fire but just on the one cylinder. I bit of thought then a removed the float bowl from the none firing cylinder to find it was dry...no petrol. I was quite chuffed as I thought the engine sounded short of gas rather than short of spark. I flipped the floats a couple of time which made the petrol flow. I quickly replaced the float bowl since petrol was p*ssing out all over the drive. I thumbed the starter button again and this time she fired. The BM ran strongly if lumpy. The carbs definitely need balancing.
I pulled the clutch lever in and tried to engage a gear but nothing happened. I engaged a gear and dropped the clutch but the back wheel did not turn. I ran up the gear box and down again without success. I imagine all kinds of issues, incorrect clutch installation, iffy gearbox. I put those thoughts to the back of my mind and got a couple of spanners to adjust the free play on the clutch actuator rod. That did the trick. With the engine now idling off the choke I took a chance, dropped the bike off the stand. hooked first gear, revs and clutch out. As with all BM's off this vintage the torque lifted the bike and we were off. Just to the top of the street and back. A result. A couple of issue became apparent but the key thing is the bike runs, suspension and brakes work, and the bike feels quite balanced i.e. the wheels are in line. As it has been raining today and I spilled some petrol. The drive is covered with rainbow patches of petrol. It is still raining so the patches will wash off.
After my tentative trip to the top of the street I adjusted the back brake then left the bike to idle on the drive. The bike was up to temperature. The bike idled evenly over the twenty minutes it stood there. A checked over the bike afterwards to find, more accurately not to find any leaks. I gave the sump plug an eighth of a turn to stop the last little bit of an oil drip.
Asa final act I got the side panel down and fitted each one. The near side panel required my to remove the hand grip from the frame. . It was th work of a moment. With the tricky panel sorted I fitted the off-side panel too and hooked the rubber band between them. Job done th e bike was put back on the stand and a final job list created.
Next up was to fill each suspension leg with the right amount of oil. Many years ago I picked up a 60mm syringe. It is just the job for measuring out the oil and for squirting the oil into the tiny filler hole on the top of the suspension leg. 230mm in each leg later, filler caps replaced and top covers tapped on, that job was done too. I had to cut cable ties that held the wires from each switch cluster in order to get access to the top of the suspension legs. It was a small job to refit the cable ties once the oil top up was completed.
I had bought an auxillary power socket some time ago. I decided today was the day to fit it. It went on well enough but it was a fiddle to route and connect the wires. I had to find a longer bolt for the battery terminal to accept the additional connectors. That job done I replaced the tool tray. The wires made the tray fit a little more snug.
The next job was to fit the clutch side hand grip. I wound a couple of turns of insulating tape round the handle bar and forced the grip on. It went on nice and tight but I can see it being a bugger to get off when I decide to connect the heater elements.
After that it was a nuts and bolts check. I moved the Landy so I could get the bike out of the garage. With the bike on the drive, choke lever engaged, I thumbed the starter button the engine turned over but it would not fire. I bit of coaxing and it did fire but just on the one cylinder. I bit of thought then a removed the float bowl from the none firing cylinder to find it was dry...no petrol. I was quite chuffed as I thought the engine sounded short of gas rather than short of spark. I flipped the floats a couple of time which made the petrol flow. I quickly replaced the float bowl since petrol was p*ssing out all over the drive. I thumbed the starter button again and this time she fired. The BM ran strongly if lumpy. The carbs definitely need balancing.
I pulled the clutch lever in and tried to engage a gear but nothing happened. I engaged a gear and dropped the clutch but the back wheel did not turn. I ran up the gear box and down again without success. I imagine all kinds of issues, incorrect clutch installation, iffy gearbox. I put those thoughts to the back of my mind and got a couple of spanners to adjust the free play on the clutch actuator rod. That did the trick. With the engine now idling off the choke I took a chance, dropped the bike off the stand. hooked first gear, revs and clutch out. As with all BM's off this vintage the torque lifted the bike and we were off. Just to the top of the street and back. A result. A couple of issue became apparent but the key thing is the bike runs, suspension and brakes work, and the bike feels quite balanced i.e. the wheels are in line. As it has been raining today and I spilled some petrol. The drive is covered with rainbow patches of petrol. It is still raining so the patches will wash off.
After my tentative trip to the top of the street I adjusted the back brake then left the bike to idle on the drive. The bike was up to temperature. The bike idled evenly over the twenty minutes it stood there. A checked over the bike afterwards to find, more accurately not to find any leaks. I gave the sump plug an eighth of a turn to stop the last little bit of an oil drip.
Asa final act I got the side panel down and fitted each one. The near side panel required my to remove the hand grip from the frame. . It was th work of a moment. With the tricky panel sorted I fitted the off-side panel too and hooked the rubber band between them. Job done th e bike was put back on the stand and a final job list created.
Sunday, 29 May 2011
Getting there
I sent for a new set of brake front pads from Motorworks. I was convinced I had the wrong pads as the front brake was binding on the disc and they were dragging the pads from there seating. The new pads were exactly the same as the ones on the bike. So that means the problem is else where. I re-read the manual. I figured it might be the adjustment of the caliper via the eccentric cam. Once the wheel was re-fitted I adjusted the calipers. That seemed to do the job. Unfortunately the bike is the wrong way round on the stand.
With the bike turned round I tackled the gear box and sump plug. I dropped the oil from the engine. The new oil pressure switch stopped part of the oil leak but the sump plug was still dripping. I took the sump plug out but that means you lose the oil too. The crush washer was not doing its job. I did not a washer to fit so I could not refilled the engine. Next up was the gear box oil. I took the drain plug out. There was no oil in the gearbox but the plug, which is magnetic, was covered in gunge. I cleaned the plug , as luck would have it, I had a crush washer in stock which I fitted when the plug was replaced. To top the oil up I had to remove the foot peg. That done I measured out the oil, 800cc of SAE 90's and squeezed it into the plug hole. When the oil level is right it dribbles out of the filler plug hole. It dribbled therefore it was full. I replaced the filler plug then the foot peg which just happens to have the gear selector attached.
I got the manual out to make a note of the oil volume for the engine. I need 2 3/4 litres of SAE 10/40's and the note the volume of the fork oil which is 280cc per leg of SAE 5's. Now I just have to go and buy the oil.
With the bike turned round I tackled the gear box and sump plug. I dropped the oil from the engine. The new oil pressure switch stopped part of the oil leak but the sump plug was still dripping. I took the sump plug out but that means you lose the oil too. The crush washer was not doing its job. I did not a washer to fit so I could not refilled the engine. Next up was the gear box oil. I took the drain plug out. There was no oil in the gearbox but the plug, which is magnetic, was covered in gunge. I cleaned the plug , as luck would have it, I had a crush washer in stock which I fitted when the plug was replaced. To top the oil up I had to remove the foot peg. That done I measured out the oil, 800cc of SAE 90's and squeezed it into the plug hole. When the oil level is right it dribbles out of the filler plug hole. It dribbled therefore it was full. I replaced the filler plug then the foot peg which just happens to have the gear selector attached.
I got the manual out to make a note of the oil volume for the engine. I need 2 3/4 litres of SAE 10/40's and the note the volume of the fork oil which is 280cc per leg of SAE 5's. Now I just have to go and buy the oil.