The first job of the day was to turn the bike round on the stand. The bike is heavier than I remember. It might be because the front brakes are binding.
Today was another break through day. I managed to fit the side stand spring. First time round I used a cable tie and a lever. The cable tie snapped. Next I used two cable ties and a lever. I just managed to to get the spring over the toggle on the side stand. Job done and it works properly. It only took three years to sort it out.
I had decided that the issue with the rear indicators and stop/tail lights was a wiring loom. After more than an hour of deliberation I discovered the fault. It was a issue dodgy earth. Fixing the fault was straight forward if fiddly. I also had to dismantle the rear light /indicator cluster, I cleaned it and carefully reassembled the cluster whist testing each step. Finally it was together and working. I then had to reassemble the loom and refit the relays, organise the wiring in the headlight shell and then refit the head light cluster. At each stage I tested the lights to ensure they worked. I an glad to say they did.
I fitted the near side horn and secured the wiring. It looks neat and the horns work....very loudly. With the horns fitted I then fitted the petrol tank. It was a bit of a fiddle. I hooked up the fuel lines. It is ready for fuel. Some of which I have in a Jerry can in Degsy. I cut a piece of insulating tape to length and stuck it to the rear sub frame to protect it from the seat hinge whilst fitting of the seat. I then fitted the seat. The seat needs a little work but money does not allow for such extravagances.
I discovered a new vendor from a magazine. They are SAS which have a branch in Shepshed. Click HERE from web site. I went along and found a deep 22mm socket which would allowed me to remove and replace the oil pressure switch. I did indeed replace the oil switch. The switch worked fine it allowed oil to pour out through the insulator even under static conditions. I hope the new one, now fitted, does a better job.
Unless I can get a set of instrument pods I will have to remove the Voltmeter and Clock. As it is they are dangling off the headlight shell.
Showing posts with label Electrical. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Electrical. Show all posts
Sunday, 8 May 2011
Thursday, 14 April 2011
General electrics
Last night [Wednesday] I decided to have a go at the ignition switch. I am sure it is not wired up correctly. First I checked I had the right number and colour of wires. I did. I took the ignition switch off the bike and checked the numbers of the tags against the wiring diagram. The numbers of the tags did not tally. I used the electric meter to try to work out which tags did what. I figured out where the red wire, power, and the grey/black wire, parking lights went. Then I just had three tags and two green wires to hook up. By a process of trial and error I found the homes for the wires. When complete I was able to have the parking lights on, which allows the key to come out of the off the switch. At full on the key is locked into the switch and all the lights and ignition circuits. The brakes lights respond to the levers. I refitted the switch and bedded own the wires into the headlight shell.
I figured out what the rest of the free wires were in the head lamp shell. I have to find the proper feeds for the auxiliary instruments. It also looks like one or more bulbs in the speed/rev pod have blown.
Thursday night I had a go at the clutch cut-out switch. I had to remove the clutch lever to get at the screw that held on the switch. Once the screw was out it was simple job to replace the switch and re-assemble the clutch lever unit. I capped off the unused wires in the headlight shell and tucked them out of the way.
I had recently bought the parking light holder and bulb. I had to use a little foil the make the holder a snug fit in the head light reflector. I fitted a spade connector to the correct switched power wire and connected it up. The earth wire took a bit of routing but I got a good connection. I taped the parking light wires to the headlight wire set to make it neat. The wiring in the headlight shell is very crowded.
I figured out what the rest of the free wires were in the head lamp shell. I have to find the proper feeds for the auxiliary instruments. It also looks like one or more bulbs in the speed/rev pod have blown.
Thursday night I had a go at the clutch cut-out switch. I had to remove the clutch lever to get at the screw that held on the switch. Once the screw was out it was simple job to replace the switch and re-assemble the clutch lever unit. I capped off the unused wires in the headlight shell and tucked them out of the way.
I had recently bought the parking light holder and bulb. I had to use a little foil the make the holder a snug fit in the head light reflector. I fitted a spade connector to the correct switched power wire and connected it up. The earth wire took a bit of routing but I got a good connection. I taped the parking light wires to the headlight wire set to make it neat. The wiring in the headlight shell is very crowded.
Sunday, 3 April 2011
Avalanche
The bike's battery is totally flat but I don't understand why. It happens that my battery charger has expired. Are they connected? I found a new bike shop in Woodville. It has been there for years and serves old bikes, British mainly. I bought a new charger. On getting it home I plugged it into the bike. I discovered the problem. For some reason I connected the back light on the clock to a permanent live feed. Over the weeks and back light ran the battery down to death. It took about two hours for the new charger to get the battery moving. By Sunday the battery was pretty well charged.
It was raining Sunday afternoon so I has a good excuse to spend time on the bike. I had a rummage in the box and found the covers for the swing arm pivots and the stantion top covers. Both sets are now fitted and look good. In the bolt box I found a screw that fitted the brake side switch block. I cut off the tie off and secured the switch block with the screw. The right side indicators where not working properly. As they flashed the headlight and tail lights dimmed in time to the indicator. I just happened to be considering the wiring for the buzzer relay. I pulled out the relay to test it. I flicked the indicator switch and found the indicators worked perfectly. Whilst working on the left side of the bike decided to shorten the wiring loom that led down the buzzer and neutral sensor. I pared back the sleeve and cut back the four wires for the buzzer and the two for the neutral switch. I slipped on a length of heat shrink sleeving then stripped back the individual wire sleeves to exposed the copper core. I twisted the correct wire end together and soldered them. Next was the put insulating tape round them to isolate each wire joint of wire end. I slipped the heat shrink along the wire and used the missus hair drier to shrink the new sleeve to size. I positioned the reduce loom against the frame and secured it in place with wire ties. The wiring sub-loom he rear light is too long. Whilst on roll I cut the wires of the sub-loom to reduce the length. It was more of the same, cutting, paring, soldering, hear shrink and finishing with wire ties to secure the sub-loom. I also fitted the plastic wire loops that fit on the rear mudguard to to control the loom back to the rear light cluster. Whilst in a wire fettling groove I secured the wire to the handle bar switches with wire ties. I offered the headlight shell into the headlight cowl. A bit of fiddling and reorganising the cables in the shell allowed the headlight to fit.
I did a lose fit on the front mudguard bracket. It is two bolts short, even so I dry fitted the bracket and the mudguard on the bracket. I offered up the tank but it was was fouled by wiring and the master cylinder. I loosened everything and eased things out of the way until the tank fitted. With the tank on I propped up the rear wheel to put the bile on a nature level. I then fitted the BMW roundrels onto the tank. They lift the tank even thought the paintwork is fab. I popped the seat on for the full effect.
I got the silencers down from the roof space the fitted them. Four bolts either side. I also dipped the threads on copper slip before fitting. I tightened up all the other bolts the secure the exhausts. I put on the front cover just for the effect. The bike looks finished but there several things yet to do. One of the things to do is to make a list of the few parts that are missing.
One little job that has given more pleasure than it should was pumping up the front tyre. It has stayed up so one less thing to worry about. I just have find pods to take the clocks and voltmeter otherwise they with have to be taken off the bike. I cannot have them flopping about. I have found that the clutch cut out switch has been butchered so another thing for the list. The neutral sensor seems to be u/s. I took a tour of the Internet showed how the get access to replace it. another item for the list. I was chuffed to find the rear brake light switched worked. I figured the front would be OK once the fluid was in the front brake system, fingers crossed.
It was raining Sunday afternoon so I has a good excuse to spend time on the bike. I had a rummage in the box and found the covers for the swing arm pivots and the stantion top covers. Both sets are now fitted and look good. In the bolt box I found a screw that fitted the brake side switch block. I cut off the tie off and secured the switch block with the screw. The right side indicators where not working properly. As they flashed the headlight and tail lights dimmed in time to the indicator. I just happened to be considering the wiring for the buzzer relay. I pulled out the relay to test it. I flicked the indicator switch and found the indicators worked perfectly. Whilst working on the left side of the bike decided to shorten the wiring loom that led down the buzzer and neutral sensor. I pared back the sleeve and cut back the four wires for the buzzer and the two for the neutral switch. I slipped on a length of heat shrink sleeving then stripped back the individual wire sleeves to exposed the copper core. I twisted the correct wire end together and soldered them. Next was the put insulating tape round them to isolate each wire joint of wire end. I slipped the heat shrink along the wire and used the missus hair drier to shrink the new sleeve to size. I positioned the reduce loom against the frame and secured it in place with wire ties. The wiring sub-loom he rear light is too long. Whilst on roll I cut the wires of the sub-loom to reduce the length. It was more of the same, cutting, paring, soldering, hear shrink and finishing with wire ties to secure the sub-loom. I also fitted the plastic wire loops that fit on the rear mudguard to to control the loom back to the rear light cluster. Whilst in a wire fettling groove I secured the wire to the handle bar switches with wire ties. I offered the headlight shell into the headlight cowl. A bit of fiddling and reorganising the cables in the shell allowed the headlight to fit.
I did a lose fit on the front mudguard bracket. It is two bolts short, even so I dry fitted the bracket and the mudguard on the bracket. I offered up the tank but it was was fouled by wiring and the master cylinder. I loosened everything and eased things out of the way until the tank fitted. With the tank on I propped up the rear wheel to put the bile on a nature level. I then fitted the BMW roundrels onto the tank. They lift the tank even thought the paintwork is fab. I popped the seat on for the full effect.
I got the silencers down from the roof space the fitted them. Four bolts either side. I also dipped the threads on copper slip before fitting. I tightened up all the other bolts the secure the exhausts. I put on the front cover just for the effect. The bike looks finished but there several things yet to do. One of the things to do is to make a list of the few parts that are missing.
One little job that has given more pleasure than it should was pumping up the front tyre. It has stayed up so one less thing to worry about. I just have find pods to take the clocks and voltmeter otherwise they with have to be taken off the bike. I cannot have them flopping about. I have found that the clutch cut out switch has been butchered so another thing for the list. The neutral sensor seems to be u/s. I took a tour of the Internet showed how the get access to replace it. another item for the list. I was chuffed to find the rear brake light switched worked. I figured the front would be OK once the fluid was in the front brake system, fingers crossed.
Sunday, 27 March 2011
Rear mud guard
I had a painting session. I got some spray enamel and the exhaust hangers, rear mud guard spreaders and and the brake lines. I had previously washed the braided lines withe Swafega which brought them up a treat. I created a sort of spray both and gave the items four or five coats of paint during the evening. By the time I go to them late the next day they were completely dry. I offered up he rear mud guard. No surprise it was a good fit. I sorted out the right length Stainless bolts, washers and nuts. It was just a case of fiddling under the mud guard to place the nuts and tighten them up. Next I fitted the indicator bar and the rear/brake light cowl. I rooted out the rear mud flap and rear/brake light lens. I gave them a wash and set then aside.
I tighten up the bolts on the rear suspension. I took ten minutes to polish up the panniers frames. The previous owner had lacquered the frames but now it has yellowed. I think I have a job on there.
I go the front brake calipers out of the box and dry fitted them. The brake lines are ready. I just need to get the brake pads.
I tighten up the bolts on the rear suspension. I took ten minutes to polish up the panniers frames. The previous owner had lacquered the frames but now it has yellowed. I think I have a job on there.
I go the front brake calipers out of the box and dry fitted them. The brake lines are ready. I just need to get the brake pads.
Sunday, 27 February 2011
Rear wiring loom
The new rear/stop light unit came in the post during the week. I spent time cleaning up the multi-connector of the rear light/indicator wiring loom. Now I just need to find time to put the wiring loom together. At the moment the indicators are not working but I expect they will as soon as I get the rear part of the indicator loom hooked up.
I got a pair of roundrels for side of the tank when it comes back from paint. The painter rang to check on the colour for the pin stripes. I should be picking the finished tins up in a couple of weeks.
I bought some spray enamel black paint so I should get on and paint the brake lines and rear mudguard brackets. Some of the paint has to go on the Land Rover too.
I must not forget to top up the oil in the bevel box.
I got a pair of roundrels for side of the tank when it comes back from paint. The painter rang to check on the colour for the pin stripes. I should be picking the finished tins up in a couple of weeks.
I bought some spray enamel black paint so I should get on and paint the brake lines and rear mudguard brackets. Some of the paint has to go on the Land Rover too.
I must not forget to top up the oil in the bevel box.
Monday, 24 January 2011
More Wheel Bearings
I had a brain wave this evening. Took off the bevel drive and put the rear wheel on the bench. With the wheel off and dust covers out the bevel fitted perfectly on the wheel. I put the bevel back on the bike and offered up the wheel again. It still was a good fit. I took the wheel off and fitted the inner bearing and re-fitted the wheel. Again a good fit. Wheel off. This time I added the oil seal and re-fitted the wheel. Eureka!.....play. So now I know where the issue is. There seems to be few options for sizes of dust seals. I will have a chat with the parts suppliers to see what can be done.
I have also order the instrument pods that will house the volt meter and clock. Hopefully I will have them before the weekend.
I accidentally hit the start button whilst moving the bike; the ignition key was in the on position whilst I checked the volt meter reading, and the bike burst into life. So now the bike wants to run.
I have also order the instrument pods that will house the volt meter and clock. Hopefully I will have them before the weekend.
I accidentally hit the start button whilst moving the bike; the ignition key was in the on position whilst I checked the volt meter reading, and the bike burst into life. So now the bike wants to run.
Wednesday, 18 November 2009
A very, very BIG day
Today was a very big day indeed. Today I had the bike spinning over on the starter button and the spark plugs were sparking. All I need now is some fuel and we could be there!
The delivery I had been waiting for turned up yesterday but I had to go fencing that evening. This evening I had time to fit the new purchases. The wiring sub-loom to the oil pressure switch and neutral switch that came with the bike was shot, all brittle and cracked. I bit the bullet and bought a new one. I took a little bit a fitting as it seems a little long. However I got it fitted but the neutral switch turns out to be damaged. I made a jumper connection to the circuit across the sub-looms connections. I had to clean up the main loom connectors for the sub loom. They went together just fine after cleaning. I hit the starter button again. Just the relay clicking. In then had a look at the connectors for the brakes. I put jumpers across the connectors on the loom. I hit the starter button again. Still the relay clicked. I took the air filter housing off for the umpteenth time. I also took off the starter motor cover. I know that starter motor works. The starter was not turning yet the relay clicked, it meant the power was energising the relay but not getting to the solenoid. Sure enough the wire from the relay to the solenoid was not on properly. I gave the connection a good clean and squeezed the connection grips to give a tight contact. Whilst I was there I fitted the cable tidy that I had bought that fits in front of the starter motor cover. It was a small item but it made a neat job. This time I did not refit the covers. I pushed the spark plugs into their suppressor caps and left them lying on the cylinder heads. Turned the ignition key. Another look at the dash lights. The full set are on so. The neural light is a bit dim but it is on. I pushed the starter button.......the starter engaged and spun the engine and as hoped the spark plugs sparked. Fantastic. The oil pressure light went out and stayed out. That is a good sign. I could not help but give a "woo hoo". If I had petrol and the carbs working then the bike might actually fire up. I am that close. I got H and showed her it spinning. I think she was impressed.
I check everything over again and set about reassembling the bike covers once again. I am not going to tempt fate and say this is the last time I will have to do this. I fitted the air filter housing and refitted the air inlet tracts. I gave the starter another go and it still turned over. It is such a thrill.
One of my other purchases was the gear lever linkage. It took a bit of fiddling to get on but now I can select gear with the lever. I got the special set screws and the rubber cover for the rear brake light switch. It took half an hour to fit the wires through the boot and fix the switch to the bike. Small things but more small steps. I turned out the spares boxes to see what I had in the way of front brake system. It seem I have most of it except the expensive bit, typical. I tidied up and binned the bits I would definitely would not be using. Whilst rearranging the boxes I found a rubber boot that covers the gear lever linkage so I fitted that. H brought in a brew but I was done for the evening.
The delivery I had been waiting for turned up yesterday but I had to go fencing that evening. This evening I had time to fit the new purchases. The wiring sub-loom to the oil pressure switch and neutral switch that came with the bike was shot, all brittle and cracked. I bit the bullet and bought a new one. I took a little bit a fitting as it seems a little long. However I got it fitted but the neutral switch turns out to be damaged. I made a jumper connection to the circuit across the sub-looms connections. I had to clean up the main loom connectors for the sub loom. They went together just fine after cleaning. I hit the starter button again. Just the relay clicking. In then had a look at the connectors for the brakes. I put jumpers across the connectors on the loom. I hit the starter button again. Still the relay clicked. I took the air filter housing off for the umpteenth time. I also took off the starter motor cover. I know that starter motor works. The starter was not turning yet the relay clicked, it meant the power was energising the relay but not getting to the solenoid. Sure enough the wire from the relay to the solenoid was not on properly. I gave the connection a good clean and squeezed the connection grips to give a tight contact. Whilst I was there I fitted the cable tidy that I had bought that fits in front of the starter motor cover. It was a small item but it made a neat job. This time I did not refit the covers. I pushed the spark plugs into their suppressor caps and left them lying on the cylinder heads. Turned the ignition key. Another look at the dash lights. The full set are on so. The neural light is a bit dim but it is on. I pushed the starter button.......the starter engaged and spun the engine and as hoped the spark plugs sparked. Fantastic. The oil pressure light went out and stayed out. That is a good sign. I could not help but give a "woo hoo". If I had petrol and the carbs working then the bike might actually fire up. I am that close. I got H and showed her it spinning. I think she was impressed.
I check everything over again and set about reassembling the bike covers once again. I am not going to tempt fate and say this is the last time I will have to do this. I fitted the air filter housing and refitted the air inlet tracts. I gave the starter another go and it still turned over. It is such a thrill.
One of my other purchases was the gear lever linkage. It took a bit of fiddling to get on but now I can select gear with the lever. I got the special set screws and the rubber cover for the rear brake light switch. It took half an hour to fit the wires through the boot and fix the switch to the bike. Small things but more small steps. I turned out the spares boxes to see what I had in the way of front brake system. It seem I have most of it except the expensive bit, typical. I tidied up and binned the bits I would definitely would not be using. Whilst rearranging the boxes I found a rubber boot that covers the gear lever linkage so I fitted that. H brought in a brew but I was done for the evening.
Saturday, 14 November 2009
We have light!
I spent a few hours during the week preparing the wiring. I also went to Maplins after work to buy some wire shrink sleeving and some crimp connectors. Today was really windy and it had been thrashing down all night so it was going to be too wet to go to the lottie. That was handy for me. The perfect excuse to go into the garage.
I set about connecting the wires that I had identified over the past few nights. The bike was a faired bike so I had a little dashboard with a Voltmeter and a Clock. I removed the clocks from the dashboard which was the easy bit. I stripped down the wiring sub-loom being careful to remember which wires went where. I have decided that I would fit the clocks in pods, one either side of the speedo/tacho unit. To do that I had a trim the wires from the sub-loom. I was able to squeeze the three wires for each clock down a shrink sleeve. When I got the sleeve positioned I heated it up which made the sleeve shrink onto the wires making a nice finish. The sleeved wires were then to feed into the headlight shell and connect up the wires.
With things going so well I decided to take a major step, to connect the battery. First the negative lead remembering to pick up the negative lead of the battery charge lead. I then made sure the ignition switch was in the off position. I connected the main positive lead along with positive battery charger lead. There was no smells of burning. I took the big step and turned the ignition switch. Nothing much happened. I saw the glow of the lights on the instrument panel, voltmeter and clock. I found a headlight bulb and put that in its socket. I flicked on, one at a time, the handlebar switches. The front indicators , head light responded to the switches. The ignition light came on as did the panel lights. I tried the starter, the relay clicked but nothing else. I was not surprised really as a number of switches such as neutral, clutch and oil are not connected. These items need to be in place to allow engine to run.
I positioned rear mudguard and plugged in the rear lighting loom. The rear light came on and one of the indicators worked. I am waiting for the lower sub-loom to get the remainder of the plugs hooked up. Perhaps then the engine will spin. It cannot start since there are no provisions for fuel as yet. That the next thing.
I set about connecting the wires that I had identified over the past few nights. The bike was a faired bike so I had a little dashboard with a Voltmeter and a Clock. I removed the clocks from the dashboard which was the easy bit. I stripped down the wiring sub-loom being careful to remember which wires went where. I have decided that I would fit the clocks in pods, one either side of the speedo/tacho unit. To do that I had a trim the wires from the sub-loom. I was able to squeeze the three wires for each clock down a shrink sleeve. When I got the sleeve positioned I heated it up which made the sleeve shrink onto the wires making a nice finish. The sleeved wires were then to feed into the headlight shell and connect up the wires.
With things going so well I decided to take a major step, to connect the battery. First the negative lead remembering to pick up the negative lead of the battery charge lead. I then made sure the ignition switch was in the off position. I connected the main positive lead along with positive battery charger lead. There was no smells of burning. I took the big step and turned the ignition switch. Nothing much happened. I saw the glow of the lights on the instrument panel, voltmeter and clock. I found a headlight bulb and put that in its socket. I flicked on, one at a time, the handlebar switches. The front indicators , head light responded to the switches. The ignition light came on as did the panel lights. I tried the starter, the relay clicked but nothing else. I was not surprised really as a number of switches such as neutral, clutch and oil are not connected. These items need to be in place to allow engine to run.
I positioned rear mudguard and plugged in the rear lighting loom. The rear light came on and one of the indicators worked. I am waiting for the lower sub-loom to get the remainder of the plugs hooked up. Perhaps then the engine will spin. It cannot start since there are no provisions for fuel as yet. That the next thing.
Thursday, 12 November 2009
I have had a moment
I have had a eureka moment. All this head scratching, fiddling and headaches with the wiring loom has come together. The final piece of the jigsaw has been sorted out. Sorted in the sense I know where the wires go and what they do. After a great deal of wrestling I got the ignition relay bracket dismantled, cleaned and fitted back on the bike. However it took another three refits before the bracket, connectors and loom finally decided to play ball. It is cold in the garage so the wiring loom is stiff which is not helping. I am sure the stiffness is due, in part, to the age of wiring. Things will be much better when I get big cable ties to hold the main wiring harness in position. I also discovered where to route the loom round the rear down tubes onto the rear brake light. As soon as the screws for securing the brake light switch turn up and are fitted I will secure the cables to the frame.
It is odd but the wiring looms seems to be from a US spec bike. The wiring diagram on my wall has the UK and US wiring options marked. I keep coming across spares wires that seem to be for the US spec elements. The US elements just do things like keeping riding lights on. I guess as long as the bike with runs and the lights work in a UK style I can discard the US wiring elements. [touch wood]. Lets hope I do not regret making this statement.
It is odd but the wiring looms seems to be from a US spec bike. The wiring diagram on my wall has the UK and US wiring options marked. I keep coming across spares wires that seem to be for the US spec elements. The US elements just do things like keeping riding lights on. I guess as long as the bike with runs and the lights work in a UK style I can discard the US wiring elements. [touch wood]. Lets hope I do not regret making this statement.
Monday, 9 November 2009
A quiet evening in
100 channels of TV and nothing to watch. Luckily I have other things to entertain me. I found the breather pipe for the bean can and fitted it. I knew it was in one of the boxes. I wanted to finish off installing the Boyer B ignition. I had to fit the coils so that I could position the ignition unit. The connectors on the coils were grubby so I dismantled them, gave then a good clean and put the back on. Having fitted the coils I discovered I had the earth strap on the wrong side of the bike. Most of the wiring harness seems to go the left hand side of the spine tube. Repositioning the earth strap made the other wires from the coils drop into place. I figured that the work on the top of the engine was done so to make the bike look a bit more together I fitted the engine top cover and refitted, for the umpteenth time, the air cleaner casings.
I remembered that the rear brake switch was located on the right side of the frame down by the swing arm pivot. I remembered the switch was pretty grubby. I spent fifteen minutes cleaning the switch and connectors. I tested the switch with my new multimeter. I found it was working, switch and multimeter. I trimmed back the damaged end of the lead and made a new connection. I could not find the screws to secure the switch so they have been added to the "want list". The plug that connects into the looms was corroded but I managed to clean it. Another continuity test showed that leg was working. I offered the loom up and did a dry fit of the wiring. It looks OK.
I still have a few too many loose ends on the loom. However there are less than before. I guess I just have to keep tracking and connecting switches and tags until they are all connected or what remains can be taped up and hidden in the loom.
I have to turn the bike round, on the stand, as the starter relay and other relays are fitted on the left side of the frame. If I can get this bit of wiring sorted then I will well on my way to getting the bike started. I might even put the handlebars on. I got a lot done in two and half hours.
I remembered that the rear brake switch was located on the right side of the frame down by the swing arm pivot. I remembered the switch was pretty grubby. I spent fifteen minutes cleaning the switch and connectors. I tested the switch with my new multimeter. I found it was working, switch and multimeter. I trimmed back the damaged end of the lead and made a new connection. I could not find the screws to secure the switch so they have been added to the "want list". The plug that connects into the looms was corroded but I managed to clean it. Another continuity test showed that leg was working. I offered the loom up and did a dry fit of the wiring. It looks OK.
I still have a few too many loose ends on the loom. However there are less than before. I guess I just have to keep tracking and connecting switches and tags until they are all connected or what remains can be taped up and hidden in the loom.
I have to turn the bike round, on the stand, as the starter relay and other relays are fitted on the left side of the frame. If I can get this bit of wiring sorted then I will well on my way to getting the bike started. I might even put the handlebars on. I got a lot done in two and half hours.
Monday, 2 November 2009
Boyer Bransden
I have always wanted a Boyer Bransden electronic ignition system. It was fairly expensive but I hope for great things from the unit, not least of which is not having to set the points every couple of weeks. Click HERE for the Boyer Bransden website.
I read the instructions through several time during the summer but without actually doing as the instruction said it was hard to figure what they where talking about. I got a brew and a stool and laid out all the bits on the bike lift. The ignition unit on the BM is the "Bean Can" type. I followed the instructions to dismantle the inner gubbins of the bean can. There is no way anything was going back in that can once it have it out. It would just be too fiddly. I followed the instructions very closely. Some items did not seem to work but it is Boyer B kit so it should work. After another brew the penny dropped. I rubbed a file though one of the locator recesses and the rotor just slipped in against the pins as per the instructions. After that it was plain sailing. When I got the Boyer B kit installed in the bean can I took the wire wool to the body of the can and polished it up. It is never going to be concourse condition bike but it will be serviceable. I greased the bearings and fitted the bean can into the eccentric drive off the big end shaft. It is a neat fit. Let us hope the oil seal is good and keeps the oil off the alternator.
The next job is to fit the coils, position the electronic ignition box and run the wires.
I read the instructions through several time during the summer but without actually doing as the instruction said it was hard to figure what they where talking about. I got a brew and a stool and laid out all the bits on the bike lift. The ignition unit on the BM is the "Bean Can" type. I followed the instructions to dismantle the inner gubbins of the bean can. There is no way anything was going back in that can once it have it out. It would just be too fiddly. I followed the instructions very closely. Some items did not seem to work but it is Boyer B kit so it should work. After another brew the penny dropped. I rubbed a file though one of the locator recesses and the rotor just slipped in against the pins as per the instructions. After that it was plain sailing. When I got the Boyer B kit installed in the bean can I took the wire wool to the body of the can and polished it up. It is never going to be concourse condition bike but it will be serviceable. I greased the bearings and fitted the bean can into the eccentric drive off the big end shaft. It is a neat fit. Let us hope the oil seal is good and keeps the oil off the alternator.
The next job is to fit the coils, position the electronic ignition box and run the wires.
The Year Turns
The BM has been siting on the stand all summer. It has been used as a rack, a support, it has got in the way. I have been thinking about what I shall do once the summer tasks have finished and the weather is too wet to go outside at the weekend. Last weekend the clocks went back to GMT [Greenwich Mean Time]. That means it gets darker earlier, however the weather is still quite warm. Warm enough to go into the garage at night and tinker with the bike. I have had the new charging and ignition gear since February. I have had the bits out of the boxes and bags several times. I even read the instructions a couple of times.
I started tentatively by disconnecting the battery. Then I fitted the beefy rectifier. The thing that has held me up in the state of the cover for the alternator. The old alternator was covered in oily grim. I needed something to get it off but I was not happy about using a smelly degreaser. I was in Halfords one day and came across a Lemon scented degreaser. I took a punt and bought a tin. True to the label on the tin the contents smelled of Lemon. H came in to see what I was doing. She said the air smelt zesty. I passed the test. I can carry on cleaning without stinking the house out. I bagged some wire wool and having degreased the cover plate I polished the surface with the wire wool. It has come up nice. I then had to tackle the tricky bit.
The next task was to connect the three wires leading from the alternator windings [The stator] to the distribution block. The block received the wires from the rectifier. It was a right beggar to position all the bits to solder the ends to the distribution block without cremating everything in site. After a false start, leaving things overnight and coming back with more patience, I managed to complete that task. Once the distribution block was fitted the other connectors and brush set were fitted to the plate. It was then a matter of fitting the rotor to the bike, easy enough, but then the stator and cover plate has to fit over the rotor. It was a bit fiddly to get the brushes to locate onto commutator but I remembered a tip. Place some card between the brushes and the commutator. The brushes, which are spring loaded, just slide over the card making the job much easier. I finally got the stator positioned and secured. It was a mile stone to connect up the wires of the charging circuit.
There was another job to do. The bike would normally have a mechanical regulator. The old one was junked for a solid state item. The new item went straight onto the bracket on the right side of the frame and accepted the block connector.It took longer to select the bolts than fit the item.
I started tentatively by disconnecting the battery. Then I fitted the beefy rectifier. The thing that has held me up in the state of the cover for the alternator. The old alternator was covered in oily grim. I needed something to get it off but I was not happy about using a smelly degreaser. I was in Halfords one day and came across a Lemon scented degreaser. I took a punt and bought a tin. True to the label on the tin the contents smelled of Lemon. H came in to see what I was doing. She said the air smelt zesty. I passed the test. I can carry on cleaning without stinking the house out. I bagged some wire wool and having degreased the cover plate I polished the surface with the wire wool. It has come up nice. I then had to tackle the tricky bit.
The next task was to connect the three wires leading from the alternator windings [The stator] to the distribution block. The block received the wires from the rectifier. It was a right beggar to position all the bits to solder the ends to the distribution block without cremating everything in site. After a false start, leaving things overnight and coming back with more patience, I managed to complete that task. Once the distribution block was fitted the other connectors and brush set were fitted to the plate. It was then a matter of fitting the rotor to the bike, easy enough, but then the stator and cover plate has to fit over the rotor. It was a bit fiddly to get the brushes to locate onto commutator but I remembered a tip. Place some card between the brushes and the commutator. The brushes, which are spring loaded, just slide over the card making the job much easier. I finally got the stator positioned and secured. It was a mile stone to connect up the wires of the charging circuit.
There was another job to do. The bike would normally have a mechanical regulator. The old one was junked for a solid state item. The new item went straight onto the bracket on the right side of the frame and accepted the block connector.It took longer to select the bolts than fit the item.
Sunday, 1 February 2009
An alternator at last.
The great day has arrived. Finally I scraped together the necessary to buy the electrical parts. They arrived in the week. I also found, on the Internet, a wiring diagram for an 80/7 which is result. My friend printed it off at A3 size and in colour so it is nice a clear. I have it taped up on the cupboard door ready for the time I get to start bolting on the new bits and connecting the wires.
The stator and rotor is on the right, the big thing on the box. That makes electricity when it is spun by the crank shaft. The shiny thing with wires, on the left, is the rectifier which turns the electical output from alternating to direct current. The round things in the middle of shot are the gubbins for the electronic timing.
I have been cruising the BMW notice boards for wiring plans. Unfortunately I found other goodies for the bike. I was pleased to find pods to house the ampmeter and clock which are waterproof and fit nicely adjacent to the speedo but that's more money. I have also had this idea it might be nice to have a pair of modern mini spots. Then again they are not in keeping with the bike and they cost a mint but they are smart and might be very useful when I go touring. For the time being they at the bottom of the wish list.
The stator and rotor is on the right, the big thing on the box. That makes electricity when it is spun by the crank shaft. The shiny thing with wires, on the left, is the rectifier which turns the electical output from alternating to direct current. The round things in the middle of shot are the gubbins for the electronic timing.
I have been cruising the BMW notice boards for wiring plans. Unfortunately I found other goodies for the bike. I was pleased to find pods to house the ampmeter and clock which are waterproof and fit nicely adjacent to the speedo but that's more money. I have also had this idea it might be nice to have a pair of modern mini spots. Then again they are not in keeping with the bike and they cost a mint but they are smart and might be very useful when I go touring. For the time being they at the bottom of the wish list.
Saturday, 6 December 2008
Headlight and Exhaust
I had another session of buying the little things for the bike. The key parts is the mounting brackets that holds the head lamp shell. Putting the brackets on requires fittings the front forks. What is handy about the BMW front fork set up is the that the top yoke is not a clamp like the bottom yoke or, indeed, like top clamps on Japanese bikes. It means that the top "yoke" can be removed whilst leaving the fork stanchions in the bottom yokes. The importance of this function, is that once the stanchions are positioned and the clamps pinched tight, you can work on each legs independently.
Each leg has a indicator stalk which is fitted over the stanchion and rests on the top of the bottom yoke then comes a bottom rubber to position the head lamp bracket and a top rubber to maintain the bracket position. Only then the is the top yoke plate fitted and secured by two hefty shaped nuts which are threaded onto top of the stanchion. There is an additional shaped nut that goes on the top of the steering pin. So the top yoke is secured in three places. The head lamp brackets are quite a lose fit. Once the head lamp shell is bolted to the brackets it all becomes rigid. It was then a matter of fitting the front indicators to the stalks and wiring up the bulbs.
I decided to locate the ignition switch in the head lamp shell where it suppose to be. I fitted the ignition key barrel but the wires are too long because the bike had a fairing so needed a longer cable. This gives me a bit a job to do. I had thought that I would position the ignition switch under seat but changed my mind. I looked over the wiring again but it remains a challenge.
I also bought the metal gaskets for the exhaust headers. I had to take the exhaust header and balancer pipe off the bike. I lubricated the gaskets and header pipes with Copper slip and re-assembled the headers. I did everything up just hand tight. I had also bought the stainless steel nuts for the engine mounting bolts. The rear engine mounting bolts secure not only the engine but also the exhaust brackets for the rear end of the headers and the foot rests. As the engine mounting bolts are tightened the exhaust headers are eased into their final position. The exhaust collars are nipped up. The final tightening will be done when the engine is hot.
All of a sudden the bike is really taking shape.
Each leg has a indicator stalk which is fitted over the stanchion and rests on the top of the bottom yoke then comes a bottom rubber to position the head lamp bracket and a top rubber to maintain the bracket position. Only then the is the top yoke plate fitted and secured by two hefty shaped nuts which are threaded onto top of the stanchion. There is an additional shaped nut that goes on the top of the steering pin. So the top yoke is secured in three places. The head lamp brackets are quite a lose fit. Once the head lamp shell is bolted to the brackets it all becomes rigid. It was then a matter of fitting the front indicators to the stalks and wiring up the bulbs.
I decided to locate the ignition switch in the head lamp shell where it suppose to be. I fitted the ignition key barrel but the wires are too long because the bike had a fairing so needed a longer cable. This gives me a bit a job to do. I had thought that I would position the ignition switch under seat but changed my mind. I looked over the wiring again but it remains a challenge.
I also bought the metal gaskets for the exhaust headers. I had to take the exhaust header and balancer pipe off the bike. I lubricated the gaskets and header pipes with Copper slip and re-assembled the headers. I did everything up just hand tight. I had also bought the stainless steel nuts for the engine mounting bolts. The rear engine mounting bolts secure not only the engine but also the exhaust brackets for the rear end of the headers and the foot rests. As the engine mounting bolts are tightened the exhaust headers are eased into their final position. The exhaust collars are nipped up. The final tightening will be done when the engine is hot.
All of a sudden the bike is really taking shape.
Sunday, 26 October 2008
Whilst we are at it...
I have decided not to put the front forks back in to the new yokes. With the fork missing there is unrestricted access to the front panel area where lives the alternator, diode board and points. Since all the aforementioned items are being replaced I thought I would remove them. The alternator came off quite easily but not the stator, but I never thought it would. The manual [yes I do read the manual] said a 6mm rod, 40 to 50 mm long was needed to remove the stator. I just happened to have a 6 inch nail handy. I cut it to size and hay presto I have the stator removal tool. Having got the armature off I ran my eye over it. It is just as well I had decided to replace these parts since they where completely burned out. All I need is money to buy the all the electrics and we are in business.
I tested the starter motor and despite my best hopes I have to admit that it knackered. Something else for the parts list.
I tested the starter motor and despite my best hopes I have to admit that it knackered. Something else for the parts list.
We are on a roll
Steering head complete and time still available I look to see what else I can do. The steering damper looks like a job I can do. I ratched the damper out of the box of bits and give it the wire brush treatment. I grease the innards and offere it up to the bike. The damper fits on the underside the bottom yoke. The dampers selector is a long pin with a toothed gear on the bottom that goes through the middle of the the steering column. It took about four goes to get the selector gear to engage in the damper so that he indicator at the rider ends properly represented the amount of damping. I did it in the end without much ado. I then had to route the wiring loom around the piston element of the damper and secure the fixed end of the damper piston the location lug on the frame. Another job sorted.
Whilst we are on a roll a thought I would fit the instrument panel to the top yoke. I had to put the top yoke on so that the steering damper could be fitted. The instruments or "clocks" fit to the top yoke. It was like aerobics. There are so many bushes, washers and nuts that one needs eight fingers on each hands. No room for more hands. After some buggering about and retrieving the said bushes, washers and nuts from the floor several times, the clocks were on. I put the handlebar risers on was well but more to make sure there was room for the risers and to make sure I had the necessary nuts and washers. It means there are less things in the box. Since the clocks were in situ I routed the wiring harness for the clocks around the head stock and up to the back of the clocks were the connector just slipped in. Getting the head stock done means I can start to rationalise the wiring around the head lamp shell. I have tied the left and right hand switch gear cables around the clocks so the head lamp shell is in more or less the right position.
Whilst we are on a roll a thought I would fit the instrument panel to the top yoke. I had to put the top yoke on so that the steering damper could be fitted. The instruments or "clocks" fit to the top yoke. It was like aerobics. There are so many bushes, washers and nuts that one needs eight fingers on each hands. No room for more hands. After some buggering about and retrieving the said bushes, washers and nuts from the floor several times, the clocks were on. I put the handlebar risers on was well but more to make sure there was room for the risers and to make sure I had the necessary nuts and washers. It means there are less things in the box. Since the clocks were in situ I routed the wiring harness for the clocks around the head stock and up to the back of the clocks were the connector just slipped in. Getting the head stock done means I can start to rationalise the wiring around the head lamp shell. I have tied the left and right hand switch gear cables around the clocks so the head lamp shell is in more or less the right position.
Saturday, 25 October 2008
At Last a Battery
I have been on holiday this week so had the time to go to Motoworks in Hudderfield to get a battery. The battery for the bike is a 30 amp hour, lead acid job. It would run a small car. In times past when money was short and I needed a battery for a BMW I would get one for the Reliant Robin. You would have to modify the battery rack a little but it was a small price to pay. The Reliant battery was about a third less in cost than the genuine BMW article and work just as well. 30 amp hour battery is the heavy duty version. The standard item is 25amp hour. The bike needs a good kick to spin the engine to start it and a hope to have some electrical "extras" on the bikes so a big battery is the order of the day. When I get the new alternator it too will be a high output job to go with the big battery.
I topped the battery up with the acid which was provided separate bottles. I put the battery in the frame and hooked the earth strap and main power feed. At the same in I fitted the fast connector for the battery charger. This means I can leave the charger plugged in keeping the battery in proper trim. When it comes to riding the bike I can just unplug the charger and be on my way [nothing like optimism, is there?]. The battery needs 24 to 30 hours to come up to full charge. Thereafter I can test the starter motor. I have taken the starter motor out of the bike so that I clean it up and repaint the unit. It should also help the testing process should all not go as planned.
Whilst at Motoworks I got a set of steering head bearings and the fuel line. The fuel line has been cut to size to go across the back of the air box. The steering head bearing has not been so simple a job. I needed the rubber mallet to get the steering stem and bottom yoke off the bike. That should have been a clue. The top tapered roller bearing came away without much ado. The bottom bearing was quite another story. So far the bearing has been destroyed leaving just the inner bearing face which seems to have cold welded itself the stem. I have broken one screwdriver and bent another trying to pry the bearing up the stem. So far no movement on the bearing front. Time to set it aside to calm down and regroup. Everything was going so well up to that point!
I topped the battery up with the acid which was provided separate bottles. I put the battery in the frame and hooked the earth strap and main power feed. At the same in I fitted the fast connector for the battery charger. This means I can leave the charger plugged in keeping the battery in proper trim. When it comes to riding the bike I can just unplug the charger and be on my way [nothing like optimism, is there?]. The battery needs 24 to 30 hours to come up to full charge. Thereafter I can test the starter motor. I have taken the starter motor out of the bike so that I clean it up and repaint the unit. It should also help the testing process should all not go as planned.
Whilst at Motoworks I got a set of steering head bearings and the fuel line. The fuel line has been cut to size to go across the back of the air box. The steering head bearing has not been so simple a job. I needed the rubber mallet to get the steering stem and bottom yoke off the bike. That should have been a clue. The top tapered roller bearing came away without much ado. The bottom bearing was quite another story. So far the bearing has been destroyed leaving just the inner bearing face which seems to have cold welded itself the stem. I have broken one screwdriver and bent another trying to pry the bearing up the stem. So far no movement on the bearing front. Time to set it aside to calm down and regroup. Everything was going so well up to that point!
Sunday, 13 April 2008
Round one to the wiring
The wiring is about sorted. I have figured was is missing and what need altering. I nearly have enough for a battery and then the validation of the starter motor and charging circuit can really begin. I think I have the charging circuit sorted, wiring wise, but I won't know until I start the bike that it works as it should. I am going to tackle the steering head area next. Once that is done I can get he headlight shell fixed. This matters because the wiring loom is routed under the bottom york so it gets in the way if you need to get he steering column out.
Thursday, 27 March 2008
!@#$ wiring
I have made a break through with the wiring but only once I got a pen, a roll of masking tape, the colour wiring diagram and the ubiquitous mug of tea and sat down to identify the loose ends of wiring. Cable by cable and relay by relay the ends were checked off against the diagram and labelled. I now have only to work out a few of the finer points before securing the wiring loom to the frame. This will trigger me to hook up the available relays, switches and earth points. After that it is a question of a battery and a series of tests to ensure the major components work.
Pay day has come round again so I can have some more goodies. Fuel line this time and possibly a battery.
I have resolved to run the bike without a fairing so I have to work out how to modify the wiring from the RT version. I think it just a case of shorting the wires to bring the relays back inside the headlight shell. We shall see.
Pay day has come round again so I can have some more goodies. Fuel line this time and possibly a battery.
I have resolved to run the bike without a fairing so I have to work out how to modify the wiring from the RT version. I think it just a case of shorting the wires to bring the relays back inside the headlight shell. We shall see.
Wednesday, 19 March 2008
Head Scratching
During last weekend I fitted the bits I got from Motorworks which was nice. The next job was not so nice. I offered up the wiring loom to the frame. I seem to have a lot of spare wires and connectors with no obvious place to connect. I scratched my head for a while and decided not to struggle. I went on the interweb instead and found a wiring diagram in colour. When I have printed it of I shall have a good look at it and see I can understand the wiring loom.
I fitted a few of the cable to the bike. The clutch and speedo cables were fitted and routed to the head stock area. Then the earth strap. The earth strap uses the same bolt as the speedo cable retaining bolt. I fitted the main live cable to the starter motor and ran it back to the battery box. No battery as yet but the carrier is ready.
I need to test the starter motor and sort out the wiring from the rectifier and then I can fit the engine top cover. I have to buy some fuel hose so the I can fit the air filter box. The fuel line has a balancing tube that run through the air filter. Then I can mess about with the carbs and wiring which are the big jobs.
I fitted a few of the cable to the bike. The clutch and speedo cables were fitted and routed to the head stock area. Then the earth strap. The earth strap uses the same bolt as the speedo cable retaining bolt. I fitted the main live cable to the starter motor and ran it back to the battery box. No battery as yet but the carrier is ready.
I need to test the starter motor and sort out the wiring from the rectifier and then I can fit the engine top cover. I have to buy some fuel hose so the I can fit the air filter box. The fuel line has a balancing tube that run through the air filter. Then I can mess about with the carbs and wiring which are the big jobs.