The first job of the day was to turn the bike round on the stand. The bike is heavier than I remember. It might be because the front brakes are binding.
Today was another break through day. I managed to fit the side stand spring. First time round I used a cable tie and a lever. The cable tie snapped. Next I used two cable ties and a lever. I just managed to to get the spring over the toggle on the side stand. Job done and it works properly. It only took three years to sort it out.
I had decided that the issue with the rear indicators and stop/tail lights was a wiring loom. After more than an hour of deliberation I discovered the fault. It was a issue dodgy earth. Fixing the fault was straight forward if fiddly. I also had to dismantle the rear light /indicator cluster, I cleaned it and carefully reassembled the cluster whist testing each step. Finally it was together and working. I then had to reassemble the loom and refit the relays, organise the wiring in the headlight shell and then refit the head light cluster. At each stage I tested the lights to ensure they worked. I an glad to say they did.
I fitted the near side horn and secured the wiring. It looks neat and the horns work....very loudly. With the horns fitted I then fitted the petrol tank. It was a bit of a fiddle. I hooked up the fuel lines. It is ready for fuel. Some of which I have in a Jerry can in Degsy. I cut a piece of insulating tape to length and stuck it to the rear sub frame to protect it from the seat hinge whilst fitting of the seat. I then fitted the seat. The seat needs a little work but money does not allow for such extravagances.
I discovered a new vendor from a magazine. They are SAS which have a branch in Shepshed. Click HERE from web site. I went along and found a deep 22mm socket which would allowed me to remove and replace the oil pressure switch. I did indeed replace the oil switch. The switch worked fine it allowed oil to pour out through the insulator even under static conditions. I hope the new one, now fitted, does a better job.
Unless I can get a set of instrument pods I will have to remove the Voltmeter and Clock. As it is they are dangling off the headlight shell.
Showing posts with label Wiring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wiring. Show all posts
Sunday, 8 May 2011
Sunday, 3 April 2011
Avalanche
The bike's battery is totally flat but I don't understand why. It happens that my battery charger has expired. Are they connected? I found a new bike shop in Woodville. It has been there for years and serves old bikes, British mainly. I bought a new charger. On getting it home I plugged it into the bike. I discovered the problem. For some reason I connected the back light on the clock to a permanent live feed. Over the weeks and back light ran the battery down to death. It took about two hours for the new charger to get the battery moving. By Sunday the battery was pretty well charged.
It was raining Sunday afternoon so I has a good excuse to spend time on the bike. I had a rummage in the box and found the covers for the swing arm pivots and the stantion top covers. Both sets are now fitted and look good. In the bolt box I found a screw that fitted the brake side switch block. I cut off the tie off and secured the switch block with the screw. The right side indicators where not working properly. As they flashed the headlight and tail lights dimmed in time to the indicator. I just happened to be considering the wiring for the buzzer relay. I pulled out the relay to test it. I flicked the indicator switch and found the indicators worked perfectly. Whilst working on the left side of the bike decided to shorten the wiring loom that led down the buzzer and neutral sensor. I pared back the sleeve and cut back the four wires for the buzzer and the two for the neutral switch. I slipped on a length of heat shrink sleeving then stripped back the individual wire sleeves to exposed the copper core. I twisted the correct wire end together and soldered them. Next was the put insulating tape round them to isolate each wire joint of wire end. I slipped the heat shrink along the wire and used the missus hair drier to shrink the new sleeve to size. I positioned the reduce loom against the frame and secured it in place with wire ties. The wiring sub-loom he rear light is too long. Whilst on roll I cut the wires of the sub-loom to reduce the length. It was more of the same, cutting, paring, soldering, hear shrink and finishing with wire ties to secure the sub-loom. I also fitted the plastic wire loops that fit on the rear mudguard to to control the loom back to the rear light cluster. Whilst in a wire fettling groove I secured the wire to the handle bar switches with wire ties. I offered the headlight shell into the headlight cowl. A bit of fiddling and reorganising the cables in the shell allowed the headlight to fit.
I did a lose fit on the front mudguard bracket. It is two bolts short, even so I dry fitted the bracket and the mudguard on the bracket. I offered up the tank but it was was fouled by wiring and the master cylinder. I loosened everything and eased things out of the way until the tank fitted. With the tank on I propped up the rear wheel to put the bile on a nature level. I then fitted the BMW roundrels onto the tank. They lift the tank even thought the paintwork is fab. I popped the seat on for the full effect.
I got the silencers down from the roof space the fitted them. Four bolts either side. I also dipped the threads on copper slip before fitting. I tightened up all the other bolts the secure the exhausts. I put on the front cover just for the effect. The bike looks finished but there several things yet to do. One of the things to do is to make a list of the few parts that are missing.
One little job that has given more pleasure than it should was pumping up the front tyre. It has stayed up so one less thing to worry about. I just have find pods to take the clocks and voltmeter otherwise they with have to be taken off the bike. I cannot have them flopping about. I have found that the clutch cut out switch has been butchered so another thing for the list. The neutral sensor seems to be u/s. I took a tour of the Internet showed how the get access to replace it. another item for the list. I was chuffed to find the rear brake light switched worked. I figured the front would be OK once the fluid was in the front brake system, fingers crossed.
It was raining Sunday afternoon so I has a good excuse to spend time on the bike. I had a rummage in the box and found the covers for the swing arm pivots and the stantion top covers. Both sets are now fitted and look good. In the bolt box I found a screw that fitted the brake side switch block. I cut off the tie off and secured the switch block with the screw. The right side indicators where not working properly. As they flashed the headlight and tail lights dimmed in time to the indicator. I just happened to be considering the wiring for the buzzer relay. I pulled out the relay to test it. I flicked the indicator switch and found the indicators worked perfectly. Whilst working on the left side of the bike decided to shorten the wiring loom that led down the buzzer and neutral sensor. I pared back the sleeve and cut back the four wires for the buzzer and the two for the neutral switch. I slipped on a length of heat shrink sleeving then stripped back the individual wire sleeves to exposed the copper core. I twisted the correct wire end together and soldered them. Next was the put insulating tape round them to isolate each wire joint of wire end. I slipped the heat shrink along the wire and used the missus hair drier to shrink the new sleeve to size. I positioned the reduce loom against the frame and secured it in place with wire ties. The wiring sub-loom he rear light is too long. Whilst on roll I cut the wires of the sub-loom to reduce the length. It was more of the same, cutting, paring, soldering, hear shrink and finishing with wire ties to secure the sub-loom. I also fitted the plastic wire loops that fit on the rear mudguard to to control the loom back to the rear light cluster. Whilst in a wire fettling groove I secured the wire to the handle bar switches with wire ties. I offered the headlight shell into the headlight cowl. A bit of fiddling and reorganising the cables in the shell allowed the headlight to fit.
I did a lose fit on the front mudguard bracket. It is two bolts short, even so I dry fitted the bracket and the mudguard on the bracket. I offered up the tank but it was was fouled by wiring and the master cylinder. I loosened everything and eased things out of the way until the tank fitted. With the tank on I propped up the rear wheel to put the bile on a nature level. I then fitted the BMW roundrels onto the tank. They lift the tank even thought the paintwork is fab. I popped the seat on for the full effect.
I got the silencers down from the roof space the fitted them. Four bolts either side. I also dipped the threads on copper slip before fitting. I tightened up all the other bolts the secure the exhausts. I put on the front cover just for the effect. The bike looks finished but there several things yet to do. One of the things to do is to make a list of the few parts that are missing.
One little job that has given more pleasure than it should was pumping up the front tyre. It has stayed up so one less thing to worry about. I just have find pods to take the clocks and voltmeter otherwise they with have to be taken off the bike. I cannot have them flopping about. I have found that the clutch cut out switch has been butchered so another thing for the list. The neutral sensor seems to be u/s. I took a tour of the Internet showed how the get access to replace it. another item for the list. I was chuffed to find the rear brake light switched worked. I figured the front would be OK once the fluid was in the front brake system, fingers crossed.
Tuesday, 20 July 2010
A rainy day
Saturday 17th July was a rainy day. I had got soaked at the allotment in the morning so not having much to do on on rainy Saturday I had a look at the the bike. The electric clock had run down the battery. I had some acid left over from the initial fill so used it to top up the battery acid level. The voltmeter started to register an increase almost immediately. I plugged in the battery charger and watched the volts increase.
Whilst I was pondering what needed to be done I started rummaging in the boxes. I got the handle bars off the garage rafters and fitted them to the headstock. I found the clutch side handle bar cluster. A bit of digging and I found the lever and pivot pin. I assembled the cluster and fitted it to the handlebar. More rummaging turned up the brake side cluster, pivot pin, throttle twist grip, the throttle cable pull and the cover. I had hung up the throttle cables months ago and had soaked them in oil. Now that I need them I just got them off the rack all ready to go. I assembled the brake/throttle cluster. It was a bit fiddly but it went together without much trouble. I routed the throttle cables down to the carbs then positioned the switch cluster. That turned out neat enough.
The handlebars look fairly complete but there are some bits that need work. The clutch cut off switch looks a bit tired. The hand grips are heated but I have not tested them for operation. The wires for the heating elements run inside the handle bars but the wires on the end of the grip are not long enough so the handle bars are going have to come off again for the grips to be wired properly. That is a job for another day. There is another problem...where are the switches to control all these gadgets to be located?
I fitted the ends of the throttle cables to the carbs. It made a nice job. I turned the ignition on and cranked the engine. The engine made no effort start which was a shame. I resolved at that moment to get a new, second hand pair of carbs. The bike looks a lot more finished but there is still a bit to do.
Whilst I was pondering what needed to be done I started rummaging in the boxes. I got the handle bars off the garage rafters and fitted them to the headstock. I found the clutch side handle bar cluster. A bit of digging and I found the lever and pivot pin. I assembled the cluster and fitted it to the handlebar. More rummaging turned up the brake side cluster, pivot pin, throttle twist grip, the throttle cable pull and the cover. I had hung up the throttle cables months ago and had soaked them in oil. Now that I need them I just got them off the rack all ready to go. I assembled the brake/throttle cluster. It was a bit fiddly but it went together without much trouble. I routed the throttle cables down to the carbs then positioned the switch cluster. That turned out neat enough.
The handlebars look fairly complete but there are some bits that need work. The clutch cut off switch looks a bit tired. The hand grips are heated but I have not tested them for operation. The wires for the heating elements run inside the handle bars but the wires on the end of the grip are not long enough so the handle bars are going have to come off again for the grips to be wired properly. That is a job for another day. There is another problem...where are the switches to control all these gadgets to be located?
I fitted the ends of the throttle cables to the carbs. It made a nice job. I turned the ignition on and cranked the engine. The engine made no effort start which was a shame. I resolved at that moment to get a new, second hand pair of carbs. The bike looks a lot more finished but there is still a bit to do.
Wednesday, 18 November 2009
A very, very BIG day
Today was a very big day indeed. Today I had the bike spinning over on the starter button and the spark plugs were sparking. All I need now is some fuel and we could be there!
The delivery I had been waiting for turned up yesterday but I had to go fencing that evening. This evening I had time to fit the new purchases. The wiring sub-loom to the oil pressure switch and neutral switch that came with the bike was shot, all brittle and cracked. I bit the bullet and bought a new one. I took a little bit a fitting as it seems a little long. However I got it fitted but the neutral switch turns out to be damaged. I made a jumper connection to the circuit across the sub-looms connections. I had to clean up the main loom connectors for the sub loom. They went together just fine after cleaning. I hit the starter button again. Just the relay clicking. In then had a look at the connectors for the brakes. I put jumpers across the connectors on the loom. I hit the starter button again. Still the relay clicked. I took the air filter housing off for the umpteenth time. I also took off the starter motor cover. I know that starter motor works. The starter was not turning yet the relay clicked, it meant the power was energising the relay but not getting to the solenoid. Sure enough the wire from the relay to the solenoid was not on properly. I gave the connection a good clean and squeezed the connection grips to give a tight contact. Whilst I was there I fitted the cable tidy that I had bought that fits in front of the starter motor cover. It was a small item but it made a neat job. This time I did not refit the covers. I pushed the spark plugs into their suppressor caps and left them lying on the cylinder heads. Turned the ignition key. Another look at the dash lights. The full set are on so. The neural light is a bit dim but it is on. I pushed the starter button.......the starter engaged and spun the engine and as hoped the spark plugs sparked. Fantastic. The oil pressure light went out and stayed out. That is a good sign. I could not help but give a "woo hoo". If I had petrol and the carbs working then the bike might actually fire up. I am that close. I got H and showed her it spinning. I think she was impressed.
I check everything over again and set about reassembling the bike covers once again. I am not going to tempt fate and say this is the last time I will have to do this. I fitted the air filter housing and refitted the air inlet tracts. I gave the starter another go and it still turned over. It is such a thrill.
One of my other purchases was the gear lever linkage. It took a bit of fiddling to get on but now I can select gear with the lever. I got the special set screws and the rubber cover for the rear brake light switch. It took half an hour to fit the wires through the boot and fix the switch to the bike. Small things but more small steps. I turned out the spares boxes to see what I had in the way of front brake system. It seem I have most of it except the expensive bit, typical. I tidied up and binned the bits I would definitely would not be using. Whilst rearranging the boxes I found a rubber boot that covers the gear lever linkage so I fitted that. H brought in a brew but I was done for the evening.
The delivery I had been waiting for turned up yesterday but I had to go fencing that evening. This evening I had time to fit the new purchases. The wiring sub-loom to the oil pressure switch and neutral switch that came with the bike was shot, all brittle and cracked. I bit the bullet and bought a new one. I took a little bit a fitting as it seems a little long. However I got it fitted but the neutral switch turns out to be damaged. I made a jumper connection to the circuit across the sub-looms connections. I had to clean up the main loom connectors for the sub loom. They went together just fine after cleaning. I hit the starter button again. Just the relay clicking. In then had a look at the connectors for the brakes. I put jumpers across the connectors on the loom. I hit the starter button again. Still the relay clicked. I took the air filter housing off for the umpteenth time. I also took off the starter motor cover. I know that starter motor works. The starter was not turning yet the relay clicked, it meant the power was energising the relay but not getting to the solenoid. Sure enough the wire from the relay to the solenoid was not on properly. I gave the connection a good clean and squeezed the connection grips to give a tight contact. Whilst I was there I fitted the cable tidy that I had bought that fits in front of the starter motor cover. It was a small item but it made a neat job. This time I did not refit the covers. I pushed the spark plugs into their suppressor caps and left them lying on the cylinder heads. Turned the ignition key. Another look at the dash lights. The full set are on so. The neural light is a bit dim but it is on. I pushed the starter button.......the starter engaged and spun the engine and as hoped the spark plugs sparked. Fantastic. The oil pressure light went out and stayed out. That is a good sign. I could not help but give a "woo hoo". If I had petrol and the carbs working then the bike might actually fire up. I am that close. I got H and showed her it spinning. I think she was impressed.
I check everything over again and set about reassembling the bike covers once again. I am not going to tempt fate and say this is the last time I will have to do this. I fitted the air filter housing and refitted the air inlet tracts. I gave the starter another go and it still turned over. It is such a thrill.
One of my other purchases was the gear lever linkage. It took a bit of fiddling to get on but now I can select gear with the lever. I got the special set screws and the rubber cover for the rear brake light switch. It took half an hour to fit the wires through the boot and fix the switch to the bike. Small things but more small steps. I turned out the spares boxes to see what I had in the way of front brake system. It seem I have most of it except the expensive bit, typical. I tidied up and binned the bits I would definitely would not be using. Whilst rearranging the boxes I found a rubber boot that covers the gear lever linkage so I fitted that. H brought in a brew but I was done for the evening.
Saturday, 10 January 2009
First session of the New Year
The bike has been sitting on the ramp at working height since before Christmas. We had visitors over the holiday period so I had no opportunity to send time on the bike. I did spend some time looking at it and pondering what to do next.
The temperature outside is about or below zero centigrade and has been for most of the past couple of weeks, so no allotmenting today. I got wrapped up and went out to the bike with the express intention of making a start on the the electrics. Whether it was the break from working on the bike or having sufficient time to muse on the problem of the wiring but I have had something of the break through. Often with difficult jobs it is finding a place to start. I found that start point.
The problem is that bike is an RT [BMW speak for Road Tourer] and I am to convert the bike to a naked [/7] version. I have a wiring diagram for a R100RT, I could not find one for the R80/7, which means the wiring diagram is not for the exact model and there is a good deal of difference between the two wiring schemes. The start point was to connect the wires to the ignition switch. The ignition switch on the RT is positioned in the centre of the fairing cockpit. On the /7 version it is in right hand pivot of the headlight. The ignition switch has right angled spade connectors. I salvaged the connectors when I had to pull the ignition cabled back into the head lamp shell. I trimmed back the over long ignition cable and soldered the connectors back on to the wires, rerouted the cable round head lamp shell to hook up the ignition switch. That done I turned my attention to the big cable hanging out of the bottom of the head lamp shell.
The cable had a multi-pin plug and relay. The relay was not shown on the wiring diagram, the plug was. I figured from the diagram that the plug was to connect the bike to the fairing for the indicators. The additional wires than the diagram suggested, together with the extra relay, that the relay was for a hazard warning set up. I figured I could do without the hazard warning flasher. With that decision I was able the figure out the wiring for the front indicators. I am now looking for some two pin connectors to make a neat job of the indicator wiring.
The temperature outside is about or below zero centigrade and has been for most of the past couple of weeks, so no allotmenting today. I got wrapped up and went out to the bike with the express intention of making a start on the the electrics. Whether it was the break from working on the bike or having sufficient time to muse on the problem of the wiring but I have had something of the break through. Often with difficult jobs it is finding a place to start. I found that start point.
The problem is that bike is an RT [BMW speak for Road Tourer] and I am to convert the bike to a naked [/7] version. I have a wiring diagram for a R100RT, I could not find one for the R80/7, which means the wiring diagram is not for the exact model and there is a good deal of difference between the two wiring schemes. The start point was to connect the wires to the ignition switch. The ignition switch on the RT is positioned in the centre of the fairing cockpit. On the /7 version it is in right hand pivot of the headlight. The ignition switch has right angled spade connectors. I salvaged the connectors when I had to pull the ignition cabled back into the head lamp shell. I trimmed back the over long ignition cable and soldered the connectors back on to the wires, rerouted the cable round head lamp shell to hook up the ignition switch. That done I turned my attention to the big cable hanging out of the bottom of the head lamp shell.
The cable had a multi-pin plug and relay. The relay was not shown on the wiring diagram, the plug was. I figured from the diagram that the plug was to connect the bike to the fairing for the indicators. The additional wires than the diagram suggested, together with the extra relay, that the relay was for a hazard warning set up. I figured I could do without the hazard warning flasher. With that decision I was able the figure out the wiring for the front indicators. I am now looking for some two pin connectors to make a neat job of the indicator wiring.