I had another session of buying the little things for the bike. The key parts is the mounting brackets that holds the head lamp shell. Putting the brackets on requires fittings the front forks. What is handy about the BMW front fork set up is the that the top yoke is not a clamp like the bottom yoke or, indeed, like top clamps on Japanese bikes. It means that the top "yoke" can be removed whilst leaving the fork stanchions in the bottom yokes. The importance of this function, is that once the stanchions are positioned and the clamps pinched tight, you can work on each legs independently.
Each leg has a indicator stalk which is fitted over the stanchion and rests on the top of the bottom yoke then comes a bottom rubber to position the head lamp bracket and a top rubber to maintain the bracket position. Only then the is the top yoke plate fitted and secured by two hefty shaped nuts which are threaded onto top of the stanchion. There is an additional shaped nut that goes on the top of the steering pin. So the top yoke is secured in three places. The head lamp brackets are quite a lose fit. Once the head lamp shell is bolted to the brackets it all becomes rigid. It was then a matter of fitting the front indicators to the stalks and wiring up the bulbs.
I decided to locate the ignition switch in the head lamp shell where it suppose to be. I fitted the ignition key barrel but the wires are too long because the bike had a fairing so needed a longer cable. This gives me a bit a job to do. I had thought that I would position the ignition switch under seat but changed my mind. I looked over the wiring again but it remains a challenge.
I also bought the metal gaskets for the exhaust headers. I had to take the exhaust header and balancer pipe off the bike. I lubricated the gaskets and header pipes with Copper slip and re-assembled the headers. I did everything up just hand tight. I had also bought the stainless steel nuts for the engine mounting bolts. The rear engine mounting bolts secure not only the engine but also the exhaust brackets for the rear end of the headers and the foot rests. As the engine mounting bolts are tightened the exhaust headers are eased into their final position. The exhaust collars are nipped up. The final tightening will be done when the engine is hot.
All of a sudden the bike is really taking shape.
Saturday, 6 December 2008
Tuesday, 25 November 2008
Tidy up the garage
I managed to get half an hour over the weekend to tidy up the garage. The main job was to take the spare bike lift out of the garage. I had forgotten how much room the bike lift took up. I gave everything a good sweep up and tidied up the shelves. I have been ruthless and chucked out anything that has been hanging about and does not look likely to be useful in the near future. I know this will back to bite me but I am happy the garage looks less cluttered for the time being.
I took the spare bike lift up to my brother in Manchester. My brother's youngest is off to Afghanistan soon so I took the opportunity to wish him well. He is very excited about the posting but, as you can imagine, Mum and Dad are less so. The other nephew has his new bike in bits in his garage. He had a spill which banjaxed the fork bottoms and most of the front end plastics. He is saving up for the parts but it going to be an expensive do.
I am hanging round for pay day so that I can more bits for the bike. The list keeps flexing as I add things to the big list and prioritise the buying list dependent on funds and what jobs release the next job. For instance, if I buy the engine mounting nuts I can fit the exhaust, foot pegs and hook up the rear brakes and gear selector linkage. That spins off the work to the rear wheel. If I buy the headlight support shrouds; I can fit the front indicators, organise the wire routing in and about the head light shell, fit the ignition switch, which spins off into fitting handle bars, grips, levers and fitting the front forks which leads to sorting the brakes.
Typing the blog has made me rethink the list.
I took the spare bike lift up to my brother in Manchester. My brother's youngest is off to Afghanistan soon so I took the opportunity to wish him well. He is very excited about the posting but, as you can imagine, Mum and Dad are less so. The other nephew has his new bike in bits in his garage. He had a spill which banjaxed the fork bottoms and most of the front end plastics. He is saving up for the parts but it going to be an expensive do.
I am hanging round for pay day so that I can more bits for the bike. The list keeps flexing as I add things to the big list and prioritise the buying list dependent on funds and what jobs release the next job. For instance, if I buy the engine mounting nuts I can fit the exhaust, foot pegs and hook up the rear brakes and gear selector linkage. That spins off the work to the rear wheel. If I buy the headlight support shrouds; I can fit the front indicators, organise the wire routing in and about the head light shell, fit the ignition switch, which spins off into fitting handle bars, grips, levers and fitting the front forks which leads to sorting the brakes.
Typing the blog has made me rethink the list.
Monday, 3 November 2008
An expensive decision
An expensive decision has been made. We need a new petrol tank. The tank that came with the bike has a the first aid compartment in the top of tank. I do not like this type tank but since tanks cost a mint I thought it would do. The clincher is that the tank is dented. It has lots a chips and minor dings in the paint but the dint is quite large which is why I did not spot it. The bike must have gone down on the right hand side and the fairing has pushed the tank in.
On closer inspection the inside of the tank is very rusty. The rust will come off once I start to use the bike and will clog up the carbs. I have had a BM with a rusty tank. I ended up fitting in-line fuel filters but they clogged up in no time. Eventually the engine is starved of fuel and runs very poorly.
The decision makes things a bit easier as far as the finished look is concerned but it is big cost.
On closer inspection the inside of the tank is very rusty. The rust will come off once I start to use the bike and will clog up the carbs. I have had a BM with a rusty tank. I ended up fitting in-line fuel filters but they clogged up in no time. Eventually the engine is starved of fuel and runs very poorly.
The decision makes things a bit easier as far as the finished look is concerned but it is big cost.
Carbs
I bumped into my friend with the parts washer and ask if I could use it. He said yes but I would have to wait until he was back from Zurich at the weekend, flash bugger. We arranged to meet at lunch on Saturday. H came along too. H and my friend's wife have been buddies for a long time. We pitched at the appointed time and found lunch was to be Spag Bol and all the trimmings as well as nice spot of red wine. Very civilised. I was expecting was my usual Saturday lunch......a cheese sarny!
The ladies were "catching up", K had to make a phone call and I was left to play with the parts washer. I soon discovered that some of what I thought was ground in dirt, was in fact, black paint. I got the proper dirt off and set the carbs aside to dry off. I used K's big vice and tools to break the grip the set screws that held on the top cover. Job done. I cleaned and packed up and went back inside to finish off the wine.
The four of us got quite comfy as you do with old friends but both of us had appointment that evening with other friends. You will have to read my other blog to find out what the evening was about. It was not a boozy evening so I was up at my usual time. It had been frosty when we left the venue but then it blew a gale all night and rained so no allotmenting today [Sunday].
Never mind I will just have to fettle the carbs. I got some mini wire brushes that fit in the cordless drill. I send about cleaning the paint and tough dirt off the carb bodies. It worked really well and it polished them too. I took off the carbs top to find that the slides were stuck in the throttle bodies. Lots of WD40 and progressively less gentle tapping later the slides came free. I took them out and cleaned up the inner face of the throttle bodies which were gummed up with petrol residue. It took some careful cleaning to get rid of the residue. A carburettor is engineered to fine tolerances so one has not to be too heavy handed. Eventually both carbs were cleaned, inside and out, and reassembled. I thought I will just see if I have all the parts to mount the carbs. There are five jubilee clips, two rubber bushes and an air duct for each side. I found I had all the bit so I just cleaned everything up and offered the bits up to the bike for a trial fit. They fitted so well the parts are now fully fitted. So why not try the choke cables, that were fitted last week, to the carbs. Yep they fit. Another tick in the box.
H brought in a cup of tea. Whilst pondering what to do next I spotted the exhaust headed pipes. I offered them up and they just slipped on. I slotted in the balancer pipe and did up the nuts finger tight. I tried the silencers on but I did not have the brackets. I took the silencers off again and put them back in the store. I thought I would have another rummage in the parts box. I found the two tank mounting bushes which was an unexpected result. I could not find the nuts for the engine mounting bolts. The riders foot rest and the exhaust header brackets fit to the rear engine mounting bolts so the nuts do five jobs. Alas no nuts but I did find the silencer brackets and the rear mud guard brackets. They are filthy so I have to consider having them cleaned and power coated like the other stuff on the bike. I now have to find a powder coater locally. I also have to make a list of the bits to be powder coated.
I even had a toy with mounting the coils but stop before things got silly. I started making two lists. One for missing or replacement parts. Some bits are just too knackered to refit and a second list of bits for coating. Whilst looking round the bike I wondered if I had all the bits for the back brake linkage. I did and now it on the bike. The rear actuating arm needs moving round the splines but that is small job which I will do when I have the rear wheel off to do the bearings.
A lots of progress has been made with the mechanical elements but I am still short of the charging and ignition circuitry and without them the bike will never get a chance to start.
The ladies were "catching up", K had to make a phone call and I was left to play with the parts washer. I soon discovered that some of what I thought was ground in dirt, was in fact, black paint. I got the proper dirt off and set the carbs aside to dry off. I used K's big vice and tools to break the grip the set screws that held on the top cover. Job done. I cleaned and packed up and went back inside to finish off the wine.
The four of us got quite comfy as you do with old friends but both of us had appointment that evening with other friends. You will have to read my other blog to find out what the evening was about. It was not a boozy evening so I was up at my usual time. It had been frosty when we left the venue but then it blew a gale all night and rained so no allotmenting today [Sunday].
Never mind I will just have to fettle the carbs. I got some mini wire brushes that fit in the cordless drill. I send about cleaning the paint and tough dirt off the carb bodies. It worked really well and it polished them too. I took off the carbs top to find that the slides were stuck in the throttle bodies. Lots of WD40 and progressively less gentle tapping later the slides came free. I took them out and cleaned up the inner face of the throttle bodies which were gummed up with petrol residue. It took some careful cleaning to get rid of the residue. A carburettor is engineered to fine tolerances so one has not to be too heavy handed. Eventually both carbs were cleaned, inside and out, and reassembled. I thought I will just see if I have all the parts to mount the carbs. There are five jubilee clips, two rubber bushes and an air duct for each side. I found I had all the bit so I just cleaned everything up and offered the bits up to the bike for a trial fit. They fitted so well the parts are now fully fitted. So why not try the choke cables, that were fitted last week, to the carbs. Yep they fit. Another tick in the box.
H brought in a cup of tea. Whilst pondering what to do next I spotted the exhaust headed pipes. I offered them up and they just slipped on. I slotted in the balancer pipe and did up the nuts finger tight. I tried the silencers on but I did not have the brackets. I took the silencers off again and put them back in the store. I thought I would have another rummage in the parts box. I found the two tank mounting bushes which was an unexpected result. I could not find the nuts for the engine mounting bolts. The riders foot rest and the exhaust header brackets fit to the rear engine mounting bolts so the nuts do five jobs. Alas no nuts but I did find the silencer brackets and the rear mud guard brackets. They are filthy so I have to consider having them cleaned and power coated like the other stuff on the bike. I now have to find a powder coater locally. I also have to make a list of the bits to be powder coated.
I even had a toy with mounting the coils but stop before things got silly. I started making two lists. One for missing or replacement parts. Some bits are just too knackered to refit and a second list of bits for coating. Whilst looking round the bike I wondered if I had all the bits for the back brake linkage. I did and now it on the bike. The rear actuating arm needs moving round the splines but that is small job which I will do when I have the rear wheel off to do the bearings.
A lots of progress has been made with the mechanical elements but I am still short of the charging and ignition circuitry and without them the bike will never get a chance to start.
Monday, 27 October 2008
It turns!!
Today I had a chat with a bloke who knows something about BMs. He suggested I needed to put power on to both the solenoid feed and the main power lead to the starter motor. Do you know what? He was right. The starter motor spun beautifully. I refitted the starter motor and hooked up the cables. I tested it again once fitted. Again it work and this time cranked the engine over (with the spark plugs out). It was fantastic to have the motor spinning under the starter.
I cleaned up the breather hoses and refitted them and finally and hopefully for the last time fitted the air cleaner. I slipped on the engine top cover which means I only have the front cover to fit, once the new alternator is fitted, to have the engine/gearbox complete. It is starting to look like a bike.
This flurry of activity only took an hour so I looked round for a small job. The choke lever assembly caught my eye. I took the assembly to bits making sure that little bits inside did not ping off in the dark recesses of the garage. Off came the cables too. I even took the cables apart. I dunked everything in a bath of WD40 and got the tooth brush busy. Having dried off the bits the worst bits were given the wire brush treatment and back round the WD40 route. The cables were pretty grimy but shooting WD down the sleeve and running the inner cable back and forth and another blast of WD soon had thing clean and running free. Then the tricky bit.... re-assembly. Just to make things interesting everything was covered in grease. Then the cables are fitted to their respective tooth drives. Each tooth drive is located in to its own tunnel. Then it just a matter of lining up the tooth drives equally and fitting the geared lever. Easy? Nope, an extra hand and X-ray vision would have been handy however half and hour later I managed to get everything positioned just long enough to get the circular springs fitted and locked together with the cover and set screw. Then it just has to be fitted to the bike. Guess where it goes? On the left side of the air filter housing. So off came the air filter housing again whilst the choke lever was fitted to it. Putting the housing back on was a bit of a faff. I had to loosen most of the cover bolts again and remove the top cover so that I could get the breather pipe in to position in the left air filter housing. Then put in all back together again...........again.
So here is a picture of where I am up to. Click on it for a big picture.
It is going to be a while before I can afford the major electrical components so I had a think about what to do next. H brought a brew in which was very timely. I few minutes of pondering led me to the carbs. They are bound to be a pain but there are two pairs of carbs in the box. I got them out and tried to figure out which pair was the best. The better looking of the pair had the screw end of the pilot jet snapped off. The other pair where very grimy but at least nothing is broken. I picked the grimy pairs as the ones for the bike and squirted WD40 all over the insides of the carbs and set them to one side. Time to let the WD do its thing. I have to figure out if I know anyone with a parts washer. Predictably, I do but will he be in at the weekend?
I cleaned up the breather hoses and refitted them and finally and hopefully for the last time fitted the air cleaner. I slipped on the engine top cover which means I only have the front cover to fit, once the new alternator is fitted, to have the engine/gearbox complete. It is starting to look like a bike.
This flurry of activity only took an hour so I looked round for a small job. The choke lever assembly caught my eye. I took the assembly to bits making sure that little bits inside did not ping off in the dark recesses of the garage. Off came the cables too. I even took the cables apart. I dunked everything in a bath of WD40 and got the tooth brush busy. Having dried off the bits the worst bits were given the wire brush treatment and back round the WD40 route. The cables were pretty grimy but shooting WD down the sleeve and running the inner cable back and forth and another blast of WD soon had thing clean and running free. Then the tricky bit.... re-assembly. Just to make things interesting everything was covered in grease. Then the cables are fitted to their respective tooth drives. Each tooth drive is located in to its own tunnel. Then it just a matter of lining up the tooth drives equally and fitting the geared lever. Easy? Nope, an extra hand and X-ray vision would have been handy however half and hour later I managed to get everything positioned just long enough to get the circular springs fitted and locked together with the cover and set screw. Then it just has to be fitted to the bike. Guess where it goes? On the left side of the air filter housing. So off came the air filter housing again whilst the choke lever was fitted to it. Putting the housing back on was a bit of a faff. I had to loosen most of the cover bolts again and remove the top cover so that I could get the breather pipe in to position in the left air filter housing. Then put in all back together again...........again.
So here is a picture of where I am up to. Click on it for a big picture.
It is going to be a while before I can afford the major electrical components so I had a think about what to do next. H brought a brew in which was very timely. I few minutes of pondering led me to the carbs. They are bound to be a pain but there are two pairs of carbs in the box. I got them out and tried to figure out which pair was the best. The better looking of the pair had the screw end of the pilot jet snapped off. The other pair where very grimy but at least nothing is broken. I picked the grimy pairs as the ones for the bike and squirted WD40 all over the insides of the carbs and set them to one side. Time to let the WD do its thing. I have to figure out if I know anyone with a parts washer. Predictably, I do but will he be in at the weekend?
Sunday, 26 October 2008
Whilst we are at it...
I have decided not to put the front forks back in to the new yokes. With the fork missing there is unrestricted access to the front panel area where lives the alternator, diode board and points. Since all the aforementioned items are being replaced I thought I would remove them. The alternator came off quite easily but not the stator, but I never thought it would. The manual [yes I do read the manual] said a 6mm rod, 40 to 50 mm long was needed to remove the stator. I just happened to have a 6 inch nail handy. I cut it to size and hay presto I have the stator removal tool. Having got the armature off I ran my eye over it. It is just as well I had decided to replace these parts since they where completely burned out. All I need is money to buy the all the electrics and we are in business.
I tested the starter motor and despite my best hopes I have to admit that it knackered. Something else for the parts list.
I tested the starter motor and despite my best hopes I have to admit that it knackered. Something else for the parts list.
We are on a roll
Steering head complete and time still available I look to see what else I can do. The steering damper looks like a job I can do. I ratched the damper out of the box of bits and give it the wire brush treatment. I grease the innards and offere it up to the bike. The damper fits on the underside the bottom yoke. The dampers selector is a long pin with a toothed gear on the bottom that goes through the middle of the the steering column. It took about four goes to get the selector gear to engage in the damper so that he indicator at the rider ends properly represented the amount of damping. I did it in the end without much ado. I then had to route the wiring loom around the piston element of the damper and secure the fixed end of the damper piston the location lug on the frame. Another job sorted.
Whilst we are on a roll a thought I would fit the instrument panel to the top yoke. I had to put the top yoke on so that the steering damper could be fitted. The instruments or "clocks" fit to the top yoke. It was like aerobics. There are so many bushes, washers and nuts that one needs eight fingers on each hands. No room for more hands. After some buggering about and retrieving the said bushes, washers and nuts from the floor several times, the clocks were on. I put the handlebar risers on was well but more to make sure there was room for the risers and to make sure I had the necessary nuts and washers. It means there are less things in the box. Since the clocks were in situ I routed the wiring harness for the clocks around the head stock and up to the back of the clocks were the connector just slipped in. Getting the head stock done means I can start to rationalise the wiring around the head lamp shell. I have tied the left and right hand switch gear cables around the clocks so the head lamp shell is in more or less the right position.
Whilst we are on a roll a thought I would fit the instrument panel to the top yoke. I had to put the top yoke on so that the steering damper could be fitted. The instruments or "clocks" fit to the top yoke. It was like aerobics. There are so many bushes, washers and nuts that one needs eight fingers on each hands. No room for more hands. After some buggering about and retrieving the said bushes, washers and nuts from the floor several times, the clocks were on. I put the handlebar risers on was well but more to make sure there was room for the risers and to make sure I had the necessary nuts and washers. It means there are less things in the box. Since the clocks were in situ I routed the wiring harness for the clocks around the head stock and up to the back of the clocks were the connector just slipped in. Getting the head stock done means I can start to rationalise the wiring around the head lamp shell. I have tied the left and right hand switch gear cables around the clocks so the head lamp shell is in more or less the right position.
Get the hammer out!
The weather today stopped me going to the allotment. This gave me space to deal with the welded on bottom steering head bearing. I got the work mate out along with the angle grinder and assorted hammer and chisels. I cut into the bearing with the grinder on a diagonal line so as not to hit the soft Aluminium yoke with the disc. The bearing was very hard material as you would expect. I tickled away at the cut for a couple of minutes checking all the time to make sure the yoke was not touched. When I judged I was half way through I put the yoke on the floor, selected a small and narrow cold chisel, positioned it carefully on the edge of the cut and after a few tentative swings gave it an almighty whack. Instantly I could tell something had given. I looked carefully and saw a hairline crack along the face of the bearing. Another gentle tap confirmed the bearing was broken and loose. It was an easy job the remove what was left of the bearing.
Next I had to clean up the yoke. It was stained with burned on grease an oil from when I tried the heat the bearing to release it. Fifteen minutes with the wire brush and wire wool brought the Aluminium up as bright as new. The next step is to get the new bottom bearing on the steering pin. I remembered to fit the dust seal first. I oiled the pin and inside face of the bearing and dropped the bearing over the pin. It just dropped down the bearing location for the top steering head bearing. It was not a push fit i had hoped for. I got the hammer out again and a flat drift. I gently tapped the bearing down the pin with and hammer and drift. I started tentatively but got progressively forceful. Just then the bearing was over the top bearing location and slipped down the pin to just above the bottom bearing location. More tapping with the hammer and drift brought the bearing home. Next off, a good dollop of grease onto the bearing and work it into the rollers. I got the top bearing and smothered that in grease too. Now I have two greased up bearings and fingers covered in grease. I push the bottom yoke the pin through the head stock Now then, there is nothing the hold the yoke into the steering head so one hand has to keep the upward pressure whist the other drops the drops the top bearing over the exposed top of the pin. Then cones the top dust cover then the securing nut. The top bearing does not want to push onto the seat so the nut has to be cranked down to push the bearing home. Not so bad if the nut was a conventional hexagonal nut. This "nut" is a disc that needs a "C" spanner. I have one but not of the correct radius. With some extra dexterity I get the bearing all the way home. As I said before too much force damages the bearing. I get away with it. The steering head is complete and it feels right. No slop and over free movement. Another job down.
Next I had to clean up the yoke. It was stained with burned on grease an oil from when I tried the heat the bearing to release it. Fifteen minutes with the wire brush and wire wool brought the Aluminium up as bright as new. The next step is to get the new bottom bearing on the steering pin. I remembered to fit the dust seal first. I oiled the pin and inside face of the bearing and dropped the bearing over the pin. It just dropped down the bearing location for the top steering head bearing. It was not a push fit i had hoped for. I got the hammer out again and a flat drift. I gently tapped the bearing down the pin with and hammer and drift. I started tentatively but got progressively forceful. Just then the bearing was over the top bearing location and slipped down the pin to just above the bottom bearing location. More tapping with the hammer and drift brought the bearing home. Next off, a good dollop of grease onto the bearing and work it into the rollers. I got the top bearing and smothered that in grease too. Now I have two greased up bearings and fingers covered in grease. I push the bottom yoke the pin through the head stock Now then, there is nothing the hold the yoke into the steering head so one hand has to keep the upward pressure whist the other drops the drops the top bearing over the exposed top of the pin. Then cones the top dust cover then the securing nut. The top bearing does not want to push onto the seat so the nut has to be cranked down to push the bearing home. Not so bad if the nut was a conventional hexagonal nut. This "nut" is a disc that needs a "C" spanner. I have one but not of the correct radius. With some extra dexterity I get the bearing all the way home. As I said before too much force damages the bearing. I get away with it. The steering head is complete and it feels right. No slop and over free movement. Another job down.
Saturday, 25 October 2008
At Last a Battery
I have been on holiday this week so had the time to go to Motoworks in Hudderfield to get a battery. The battery for the bike is a 30 amp hour, lead acid job. It would run a small car. In times past when money was short and I needed a battery for a BMW I would get one for the Reliant Robin. You would have to modify the battery rack a little but it was a small price to pay. The Reliant battery was about a third less in cost than the genuine BMW article and work just as well. 30 amp hour battery is the heavy duty version. The standard item is 25amp hour. The bike needs a good kick to spin the engine to start it and a hope to have some electrical "extras" on the bikes so a big battery is the order of the day. When I get the new alternator it too will be a high output job to go with the big battery.
I topped the battery up with the acid which was provided separate bottles. I put the battery in the frame and hooked the earth strap and main power feed. At the same in I fitted the fast connector for the battery charger. This means I can leave the charger plugged in keeping the battery in proper trim. When it comes to riding the bike I can just unplug the charger and be on my way [nothing like optimism, is there?]. The battery needs 24 to 30 hours to come up to full charge. Thereafter I can test the starter motor. I have taken the starter motor out of the bike so that I clean it up and repaint the unit. It should also help the testing process should all not go as planned.
Whilst at Motoworks I got a set of steering head bearings and the fuel line. The fuel line has been cut to size to go across the back of the air box. The steering head bearing has not been so simple a job. I needed the rubber mallet to get the steering stem and bottom yoke off the bike. That should have been a clue. The top tapered roller bearing came away without much ado. The bottom bearing was quite another story. So far the bearing has been destroyed leaving just the inner bearing face which seems to have cold welded itself the stem. I have broken one screwdriver and bent another trying to pry the bearing up the stem. So far no movement on the bearing front. Time to set it aside to calm down and regroup. Everything was going so well up to that point!
I topped the battery up with the acid which was provided separate bottles. I put the battery in the frame and hooked the earth strap and main power feed. At the same in I fitted the fast connector for the battery charger. This means I can leave the charger plugged in keeping the battery in proper trim. When it comes to riding the bike I can just unplug the charger and be on my way [nothing like optimism, is there?]. The battery needs 24 to 30 hours to come up to full charge. Thereafter I can test the starter motor. I have taken the starter motor out of the bike so that I clean it up and repaint the unit. It should also help the testing process should all not go as planned.
Whilst at Motoworks I got a set of steering head bearings and the fuel line. The fuel line has been cut to size to go across the back of the air box. The steering head bearing has not been so simple a job. I needed the rubber mallet to get the steering stem and bottom yoke off the bike. That should have been a clue. The top tapered roller bearing came away without much ado. The bottom bearing was quite another story. So far the bearing has been destroyed leaving just the inner bearing face which seems to have cold welded itself the stem. I have broken one screwdriver and bent another trying to pry the bearing up the stem. So far no movement on the bearing front. Time to set it aside to calm down and regroup. Everything was going so well up to that point!
Wednesday, 1 October 2008
Memory for passwords
I have not posted on the blog because I lost my account name and passwords listing. I don't even try to remember all the account names and passwords I have to use. I counted up how many I need to know. 46 was the number!
As you see I have got back in. Nothing much has happen on the bike but as the night draw in the allotment slows down time becomes free for things mechanical. I am sending off for the big electrical items over the next few weeks so the charging and ignition circuits can be renewed. After that the wheel and steering head bearing. Taper rollers are a bugger to fit. A slight over tighten and it is all over. Go by some new ones, start again.
I have been keeping my eyes open for a petrol tank. The one that came with the bike is an old one with the First Aid kit box in the top of the tank. It looks awful. I am looking for a tank without the little box. I have seen them but they over £400 and need a paint job as well. The hunt continues.
Donington Park has released the plans of the circuit changes and new buildings click HERE for the master plan. It is a big PDF file so might take a minute or so to download. The website has detailed drawings of all the new building as well . Click HERE for the Donington Park website.
As you see I have got back in. Nothing much has happen on the bike but as the night draw in the allotment slows down time becomes free for things mechanical. I am sending off for the big electrical items over the next few weeks so the charging and ignition circuits can be renewed. After that the wheel and steering head bearing. Taper rollers are a bugger to fit. A slight over tighten and it is all over. Go by some new ones, start again.
I have been keeping my eyes open for a petrol tank. The one that came with the bike is an old one with the First Aid kit box in the top of the tank. It looks awful. I am looking for a tank without the little box. I have seen them but they over £400 and need a paint job as well. The hunt continues.
Donington Park has released the plans of the circuit changes and new buildings click HERE for the master plan. It is a big PDF file so might take a minute or so to download. The website has detailed drawings of all the new building as well . Click HERE for the Donington Park website.
Monday, 7 July 2008
Honda Day Out
I got an invite to a launch day of Honda's CB1000R. Saturday morning was spent travelling up to Manchester. Miss L came along too but just to go shopping in the city you understand. I dropped Miss L off at her gran's and I disappeared to the dealers. I did the sign in thing and elected to ride the CB1300S, CBR1000RR and the CB1000R. The was a free butty van so I partook of burgers and coffee to fill that empty spot. Then for a good look round the bikes. It was a bit of a cheat really, brother Derek's best buddy Harvey works at the shop and Derek has had a couple of bikes from them over the years so it was not like walking into a unfriendly place. Derek with a couple of others were tasked with chaperoning riders on the new bikes round the test circuit.
Whilst I was kicking stones, killing time until my first ride out I had a look at the bikes in detail then I suddenly heard, from across the shop, "Dave 8,4 - Dave 8,4!". It was one of the lads I used to ride with when I was a courier all those years ago. EZ84 was my call sign, Dave's my name. There are about a couple of dozen people in Manchester who get their tagged with their old call sign. I am one of them. I had a chat with Steve. He seems to have done alright for himself. We had a chat about bike's, as you do. Then it was time for a spin. The CB1300 has a 1300cc engine and is big, soft and comfy. Derek wangled it so I went out on my own with one of his buddies. We did not hang about and zipped around the ten mile circuit of motorways, dual carriage ways and main roads. A good mix of road types to show off the bikes traits. Next up was the CBR1000RR a.k.a. the Fireblade. It is the out and out sports bike of the Honda range. It was £&*@ing fast, beautifully poised with phenomenal brakes and fantastic exhaust note once the revs were above 4000 rpm, Oh and did I say - blisteringly fast. That was a smashing ride. The riding position was a good if a little short of leg room. I should have done a few yoga exercises before I got on. The only awkward thing was the speedo. It is LCD and tucked over on the extreme left of the panel. The linear rev counter was cool but these day you have got to watch that speedo.
The CB1000R was saved until last. That was almost as fast as the "blade" and all most all the things the blade is except more street fighter styled. The handle bar position was a little odd at first but you soon get used to it. Let's face it I only had it for 30 minutes. It was very fast even at small throttle openings. The fuelling was smooth where ever you were in the rev range. The headlight cowl did a good job of keeping the wind blast of your chest until you hit seventy then a couple extra inches of screen would make all the difference. No doubt there will be an aftermarket mini screen before too long.
Honda have released a special bike called the DN-01. There are only 15 in the country. At the end of the day Derek got to take it up the road to be filled with petrol. It is an odd styled thing. It is essentially a 700cc twist and go scooter.
Once everything was packed away I went back to Gran's to pick up Miss L and spend a little time with them. Of course they got a digest of what I had been up to for the past five hours. Having supped plenty of tea, Miss L and I trundled home in appalling conditions.
Whilst I was kicking stones, killing time until my first ride out I had a look at the bikes in detail then I suddenly heard, from across the shop, "Dave 8,4 - Dave 8,4!". It was one of the lads I used to ride with when I was a courier all those years ago. EZ84 was my call sign, Dave's my name. There are about a couple of dozen people in Manchester who get their tagged with their old call sign. I am one of them. I had a chat with Steve. He seems to have done alright for himself. We had a chat about bike's, as you do. Then it was time for a spin. The CB1300 has a 1300cc engine and is big, soft and comfy. Derek wangled it so I went out on my own with one of his buddies. We did not hang about and zipped around the ten mile circuit of motorways, dual carriage ways and main roads. A good mix of road types to show off the bikes traits. Next up was the CBR1000RR a.k.a. the Fireblade. It is the out and out sports bike of the Honda range. It was £&*@ing fast, beautifully poised with phenomenal brakes and fantastic exhaust note once the revs were above 4000 rpm, Oh and did I say - blisteringly fast. That was a smashing ride. The riding position was a good if a little short of leg room. I should have done a few yoga exercises before I got on. The only awkward thing was the speedo. It is LCD and tucked over on the extreme left of the panel. The linear rev counter was cool but these day you have got to watch that speedo.
The CB1000R was saved until last. That was almost as fast as the "blade" and all most all the things the blade is except more street fighter styled. The handle bar position was a little odd at first but you soon get used to it. Let's face it I only had it for 30 minutes. It was very fast even at small throttle openings. The fuelling was smooth where ever you were in the rev range. The headlight cowl did a good job of keeping the wind blast of your chest until you hit seventy then a couple extra inches of screen would make all the difference. No doubt there will be an aftermarket mini screen before too long.
Honda have released a special bike called the DN-01. There are only 15 in the country. At the end of the day Derek got to take it up the road to be filled with petrol. It is an odd styled thing. It is essentially a 700cc twist and go scooter.
Once everything was packed away I went back to Gran's to pick up Miss L and spend a little time with them. Of course they got a digest of what I had been up to for the past five hours. Having supped plenty of tea, Miss L and I trundled home in appalling conditions.
Sunday, 13 April 2008
Round one to the wiring
The wiring is about sorted. I have figured was is missing and what need altering. I nearly have enough for a battery and then the validation of the starter motor and charging circuit can really begin. I think I have the charging circuit sorted, wiring wise, but I won't know until I start the bike that it works as it should. I am going to tackle the steering head area next. Once that is done I can get he headlight shell fixed. This matters because the wiring loom is routed under the bottom york so it gets in the way if you need to get he steering column out.
Thursday, 27 March 2008
!@#$ wiring
I have made a break through with the wiring but only once I got a pen, a roll of masking tape, the colour wiring diagram and the ubiquitous mug of tea and sat down to identify the loose ends of wiring. Cable by cable and relay by relay the ends were checked off against the diagram and labelled. I now have only to work out a few of the finer points before securing the wiring loom to the frame. This will trigger me to hook up the available relays, switches and earth points. After that it is a question of a battery and a series of tests to ensure the major components work.
Pay day has come round again so I can have some more goodies. Fuel line this time and possibly a battery.
I have resolved to run the bike without a fairing so I have to work out how to modify the wiring from the RT version. I think it just a case of shorting the wires to bring the relays back inside the headlight shell. We shall see.
Pay day has come round again so I can have some more goodies. Fuel line this time and possibly a battery.
I have resolved to run the bike without a fairing so I have to work out how to modify the wiring from the RT version. I think it just a case of shorting the wires to bring the relays back inside the headlight shell. We shall see.
Wednesday, 19 March 2008
Head Scratching
During last weekend I fitted the bits I got from Motorworks which was nice. The next job was not so nice. I offered up the wiring loom to the frame. I seem to have a lot of spare wires and connectors with no obvious place to connect. I scratched my head for a while and decided not to struggle. I went on the interweb instead and found a wiring diagram in colour. When I have printed it of I shall have a good look at it and see I can understand the wiring loom.
I fitted a few of the cable to the bike. The clutch and speedo cables were fitted and routed to the head stock area. Then the earth strap. The earth strap uses the same bolt as the speedo cable retaining bolt. I fitted the main live cable to the starter motor and ran it back to the battery box. No battery as yet but the carrier is ready.
I need to test the starter motor and sort out the wiring from the rectifier and then I can fit the engine top cover. I have to buy some fuel hose so the I can fit the air filter box. The fuel line has a balancing tube that run through the air filter. Then I can mess about with the carbs and wiring which are the big jobs.
I fitted a few of the cable to the bike. The clutch and speedo cables were fitted and routed to the head stock area. Then the earth strap. The earth strap uses the same bolt as the speedo cable retaining bolt. I fitted the main live cable to the starter motor and ran it back to the battery box. No battery as yet but the carrier is ready.
I need to test the starter motor and sort out the wiring from the rectifier and then I can fit the engine top cover. I have to buy some fuel hose so the I can fit the air filter box. The fuel line has a balancing tube that run through the air filter. Then I can mess about with the carbs and wiring which are the big jobs.
Saturday, 15 March 2008
What Service
Having fettled the bike a little I have discovered that some parts are missing or need replacing. I scribbled down a list that were required immediately. The key thing at the moment is to get the universal joint bolted to the gear box output shaft. Once that is done the rolling chassis is connected to the engine and gear box. Also this area is right in the middle of the bike so once it is done I know I do not have to disturb it again. The UJ is fiddly job when the clutch arm and battery box are in place.
Thursday lunch time I rang up Motorworks in Huddersfield to price up the parts on the list. I had to order them as these little items will hold up the rebuild. The chap was very helpful and got me the right mix to new and second hand parts. I assumed the bits would arrive after the weekend. To my absolute delight a box of bits arrived on my desk just after lunch on Friday. The very next day! Needless to say a number of the items are now on the bike. I will report later. I am off out with friends tonight for a drink at The Chequers and supper afterwards.
So for fantastic service in BMW parts ring Motorworks. Look for the link to their website in the adjacent column.
Thursday lunch time I rang up Motorworks in Huddersfield to price up the parts on the list. I had to order them as these little items will hold up the rebuild. The chap was very helpful and got me the right mix to new and second hand parts. I assumed the bits would arrive after the weekend. To my absolute delight a box of bits arrived on my desk just after lunch on Friday. The very next day! Needless to say a number of the items are now on the bike. I will report later. I am off out with friends tonight for a drink at The Chequers and supper afterwards.
So for fantastic service in BMW parts ring Motorworks. Look for the link to their website in the adjacent column.
Wednesday, 12 March 2008
It's a rolling chassis
This evening was the first opportunity to really do some work on the bike. I resolved to get the bike to a rolling chassis stage. In fact I managed a bit more than that in the two hours of fettling.
First I winched the bike into the air from brackets I have fitted in the garage rafters for just such an occasion. Once the front was off the ground at about the attitude of the bike if it had wheels, I was able to kick down the main stand. Given that swing arm and rear wheel were fitted, the bike just sat there resting on the back wheel. The sling was removed. Next I offered up the stanchions. It was going to be a tight fit through the lower yolk. I sprung the yolk for each leg in turn. This made slipping the stanchion through very easy. As soon as the yolk was allowed back to its natural position it gripped the stanchion sufficiently to prevent it moving. Next on was the front wheel. Without springs in the stanchion it is easy to move the stanchions to the right position to offer the wheel pin through the bottom of the stanchion and through the wheel hub. As usual the spacer meant you really need a third hand so that you push the pin, hold the spacers and position the other stanchion. With a bit of faffing about I managed it. Then I dropped in the shorter set of springs in the stanchions and did up the top caps. That was the front mocked up.
The next job was to fit the rear sub-frame and suspension. Whilst rummaging for the sub-frame bolts I found the clutch actuating pin. More about that later. I fitted the sub-frame with the bolts provided and than tried the suspension units. I could not find the right bolts for the top or bottom mounts. I settled for some that were a little too long. I will have to get the correct once before it goes on the road but it will do for now. Having the chassis rolling means I can move it about easily and it means I have less things lying about the garage.
In my hurry to fit the swing arm I over looked that the clutch actuating pin was not fitted. The swing arm covers the back of the gearbox where the clutch is operated. The clutch pin goes right through the gear box so is about eight inches long. To fit it the swing arm has to be removed. It is not a big job once the suspension is fitted. I just whipped off the back wheel and took out the swing arm pivots and eased the swing arm and bevel box backwards. The suspension legs supported the weight and limited the amount of movement. Once that was done it was a five second job to position the pin. Whilst is was there I fitted the associated thrust bearings and actuator arm. I adjusted the slack out and squeezed the actuator arm. It moved freely and I could feel the clutch springs responding. I fitted the universal joint boot whilst he swing arm was out and tightened up the battery carrier mounts. The swing arm was refitted as was the rear wheel. In refitting the rear wheel I noticed some movement round the axle. Close inspection showed the bearings were damaged or worn out. Something else for the parts list.
Now the bike looks like this:
This will be the biggest leap forward. From now on it will small steps as missing parts are sourced. I had another rummage and tidy up of the contents of the boxes that came with the bike. I am still trying to assess what is missing. I found home round the garage for the bits and pieces that will not be fitted for a while. I even had a look at the wiring loom. It is a monster and I can not find the ignition switch. I have the key!?
First I winched the bike into the air from brackets I have fitted in the garage rafters for just such an occasion. Once the front was off the ground at about the attitude of the bike if it had wheels, I was able to kick down the main stand. Given that swing arm and rear wheel were fitted, the bike just sat there resting on the back wheel. The sling was removed. Next I offered up the stanchions. It was going to be a tight fit through the lower yolk. I sprung the yolk for each leg in turn. This made slipping the stanchion through very easy. As soon as the yolk was allowed back to its natural position it gripped the stanchion sufficiently to prevent it moving. Next on was the front wheel. Without springs in the stanchion it is easy to move the stanchions to the right position to offer the wheel pin through the bottom of the stanchion and through the wheel hub. As usual the spacer meant you really need a third hand so that you push the pin, hold the spacers and position the other stanchion. With a bit of faffing about I managed it. Then I dropped in the shorter set of springs in the stanchions and did up the top caps. That was the front mocked up.
The next job was to fit the rear sub-frame and suspension. Whilst rummaging for the sub-frame bolts I found the clutch actuating pin. More about that later. I fitted the sub-frame with the bolts provided and than tried the suspension units. I could not find the right bolts for the top or bottom mounts. I settled for some that were a little too long. I will have to get the correct once before it goes on the road but it will do for now. Having the chassis rolling means I can move it about easily and it means I have less things lying about the garage.
In my hurry to fit the swing arm I over looked that the clutch actuating pin was not fitted. The swing arm covers the back of the gearbox where the clutch is operated. The clutch pin goes right through the gear box so is about eight inches long. To fit it the swing arm has to be removed. It is not a big job once the suspension is fitted. I just whipped off the back wheel and took out the swing arm pivots and eased the swing arm and bevel box backwards. The suspension legs supported the weight and limited the amount of movement. Once that was done it was a five second job to position the pin. Whilst is was there I fitted the associated thrust bearings and actuator arm. I adjusted the slack out and squeezed the actuator arm. It moved freely and I could feel the clutch springs responding. I fitted the universal joint boot whilst he swing arm was out and tightened up the battery carrier mounts. The swing arm was refitted as was the rear wheel. In refitting the rear wheel I noticed some movement round the axle. Close inspection showed the bearings were damaged or worn out. Something else for the parts list.
Now the bike looks like this:
This will be the biggest leap forward. From now on it will small steps as missing parts are sourced. I had another rummage and tidy up of the contents of the boxes that came with the bike. I am still trying to assess what is missing. I found home round the garage for the bits and pieces that will not be fitted for a while. I even had a look at the wiring loom. It is a monster and I can not find the ignition switch. I have the key!?
Monday, 10 March 2008
Today we begin
Today seemed to drag by. I was up very early with the weather. It was blowing a full gale all night. Very noisy. 5.30pm finally arrived. I got tea from the chippy for me and Ken. It was the least I could do since he was going to drive his van and help me collect the bike. All the small bits and pieces where collected up into assorted boxes and bundled in the van along with all the bits that are too large for boxes. The last lump into the van was the engine and gear box mounted in the frame. It was not too difficult a job especially since I enlisted the help of a fencing buddy Nic [Thanks Nic], who lives in the same town as the bike, for some extra manpower. All safely loaded and strapped down we set off home. No dramas on the way. We unloaded the van and managed to find homes for all the bits both big and small. And then a brew.
This what I have to work with.
This what I have to work with.
Sunday, 9 March 2008
A quick review to set the scene for the blog
Here is a quick review to set the scene for this blog. I have been riding motorbikes since 1976. I grew up through the 50mph 50cc FSIE's & AP50 era. Then we had 100mph 250cc bikes. Yamaha RD250, Suzuki x7 and Suzuki Gt250. It was a time when Japan managed to find a way to give us young lads fast bikes with OK handling, candy paint jobs and plenty of chrome. The UK motorcycle licensing laws allowed 16 year olds to ride 50cc engine capacity bikes. When you were seventeen you could ride 250cc capacity bike on "L [Learner] plates. As a learner you could ride by yourself but not carry passengers unless they had a full licence. Once you had passed the bike driving test you could ride bikes of any engine capacity.
In the mid 70's there were precious few small capacity British marques. Most were the same as the pre-war models and mainly four strokes. However with Japan twenty years on from the end of the WWII Japan were creating exciting two stroke bikes. Japanese engineering was in the ascendancy as the UK bike industry was in decline. Triumph and Norton were about the last UK mass manufacturers. The Triumph's Bonneville & Norton's Commando were their respective iconic swan songs. Lack of investment in design and marketing since the end of WWII put paid to their development. Japan's development post war created fast and lightweight two strokes. Being Japanese they rung every ounce of performance out of the engines, created funky designs with high specification [for the day] such as electric start, electronic ignition, reed induction, separate two stroke oil tanks, disc brakes. Every year brought more exotica and with a price tag that was within reach of us ordinary plebs.
I went started with a Yamaha 70cc step-through automatic, then a Honda 250cc Dream later I had a Yamaha RD250. The Honda was in the shed "healing" from a dropped valve whilst I was whizzing about on the Yam. The RD was sexy.
After meeting Hazel, who would later become my wife, I set out to pass my test. At the second attempt I am passed, on the RD. Unlimited cc here I come. My Geography teacher rode a BMW and he influenced my choice of "big bike". The Japanese bikes were sexy but not bullet proof. BMW had and air of invincibility born out of German engineering prowess. The first BMW we bought was a second hand 1979 R80/7. We had fun on it and it was "quite" reliable. It had it faults but the repairs were manageable with my mechanical skills. The R80/7 is a 800cc twin cylinder engine. BMW's were made for covering long distances. We joined the owners club, went touring and made friends we have to this day.
Later in the blog I may let you in some of my motorcycling history and the adventures along the way. The reason for this blog is that I have come into possession of an R80/7. H and I have been looking for an 80/7 for about a year. The circumstances that made the bike available are quite sad but I am not going to dwell on the events. Let us just call it an unfinished project. I collect it on Monday 10.03.08. I can not wait.
In the mid 70's there were precious few small capacity British marques. Most were the same as the pre-war models and mainly four strokes. However with Japan twenty years on from the end of the WWII Japan were creating exciting two stroke bikes. Japanese engineering was in the ascendancy as the UK bike industry was in decline. Triumph and Norton were about the last UK mass manufacturers. The Triumph's Bonneville & Norton's Commando were their respective iconic swan songs. Lack of investment in design and marketing since the end of WWII put paid to their development. Japan's development post war created fast and lightweight two strokes. Being Japanese they rung every ounce of performance out of the engines, created funky designs with high specification [for the day] such as electric start, electronic ignition, reed induction, separate two stroke oil tanks, disc brakes. Every year brought more exotica and with a price tag that was within reach of us ordinary plebs.
I went started with a Yamaha 70cc step-through automatic, then a Honda 250cc Dream later I had a Yamaha RD250. The Honda was in the shed "healing" from a dropped valve whilst I was whizzing about on the Yam. The RD was sexy.
After meeting Hazel, who would later become my wife, I set out to pass my test. At the second attempt I am passed, on the RD. Unlimited cc here I come. My Geography teacher rode a BMW and he influenced my choice of "big bike". The Japanese bikes were sexy but not bullet proof. BMW had and air of invincibility born out of German engineering prowess. The first BMW we bought was a second hand 1979 R80/7. We had fun on it and it was "quite" reliable. It had it faults but the repairs were manageable with my mechanical skills. The R80/7 is a 800cc twin cylinder engine. BMW's were made for covering long distances. We joined the owners club, went touring and made friends we have to this day.
Later in the blog I may let you in some of my motorcycling history and the adventures along the way. The reason for this blog is that I have come into possession of an R80/7. H and I have been looking for an 80/7 for about a year. The circumstances that made the bike available are quite sad but I am not going to dwell on the events. Let us just call it an unfinished project. I collect it on Monday 10.03.08. I can not wait.