Oil leak

I had to move the bike today. I started the bike up by putting the choke full on, turn the petrol taps on and hit the starter button. The engine turned over many times before it reluctantly chugged into life, one cylinder at a time. Once running it chugged along. The carbs are badly in need of balancing and when they are in balance it should run much more smoothly. I have bought a strobe timing light and need to use it on the bike to tweak the ignition. That too will make the bike run smoother.

Oil started dribbling onto the floor from the bike as it warmed up. I had a look. It was easy to spot the leak. The gasket on the oil filter cover is leaking. I will have to let the engine cool down before I start that job.

Side Panels

I picked up the final few bits and pieces that matter. I have a new favorite supplier, SAS in Shepshed. Click HERE for website. I had to file out the middle of the copper washer for the sump plug because I could not get the exact one. Given the alternative of waiting until late next week it was worth a bit of Dremell action. With the washer filed out to the exact size and sump plug refitted, I topped up the engine oil and then gave the sump plug an extra tweak. I was pleased to find it was not leaking.

Next up was to fill each suspension leg with the right amount of oil. Many years ago I picked up a 60mm syringe. It is just the job for measuring out the oil and for squirting the oil into the tiny filler hole on the top of the suspension leg. 230mm in each leg later, filler caps replaced and top covers tapped on, that job was done too. I had to cut cable ties that held the wires from each switch cluster in order to get access to the top of the suspension legs. It was a small job to refit the cable ties once the oil top up was completed.

I had bought an auxillary power socket some time ago. I decided today was the day to fit it. It went on well enough but it was a fiddle to route and connect the wires. I had to find a longer bolt for the battery terminal to accept the additional connectors. That job done I replaced the tool tray. The wires made the tray fit a little more snug.

The next job was to fit the clutch side hand grip. I wound a couple of turns of insulating tape round the handle bar and forced the grip on. It went on nice and tight but I can see it being a bugger to get off when I decide to connect the heater elements.

After that it was a nuts and bolts check. I moved the Landy so I could get the bike out of the garage. With the bike on the drive, choke lever engaged, I thumbed the starter button the engine turned over but it would not fire. I bit of coaxing and it did fire but just on the one cylinder. I bit of thought then a removed the float bowl from the none firing cylinder to find it was dry...no petrol. I was quite chuffed as I thought the engine sounded short of gas rather than short of spark. I flipped the floats a couple of time which made the petrol flow. I quickly replaced the float bowl since petrol was p*ssing out all over the drive. I thumbed the starter button again and this time she fired. The BM ran strongly if lumpy. The carbs definitely need balancing.

I pulled the clutch lever in and tried to engage a gear but nothing happened. I engaged a gear and dropped the clutch but the back wheel did not turn. I ran up the gear box and down again without success. I imagine all kinds of issues, incorrect clutch installation, iffy gearbox. I put those thoughts to the back of my mind and got a couple of spanners to adjust the free play on the clutch actuator rod. That did the trick. With the engine now idling off the choke I took a chance, dropped the bike off the stand. hooked first gear, revs and clutch out. As with all BM's off this vintage the torque lifted the bike and we were off. Just to the top of the street and back. A result. A couple of issue became apparent but the key thing is the bike runs, suspension and brakes work, and the bike feels quite balanced i.e. the wheels are in line. As it has been raining today and I spilled some petrol. The drive is covered with rainbow patches of petrol. It is still raining so the patches will wash off.

After my tentative trip to the top of the street I adjusted the back brake then left the bike to idle on the drive. The bike was up to temperature. The bike idled evenly over the twenty minutes it stood there. A checked over the bike afterwards to find, more accurately not to find any leaks. I gave the sump plug an eighth of a turn to stop the last little bit of an oil drip.

Asa final act I got the side panel down and fitted each one. The near side panel required my to remove the hand grip from the frame. . It was th work of a moment. With the tricky panel sorted I fitted the off-side panel too and hooked the rubber band between them. Job done th e bike was put back on the stand and a final job list created.

Getting there

I sent for a new set of brake front pads from Motorworks. I was convinced I had the wrong pads as the front brake was binding on the disc and they were dragging the pads from there seating. The new pads were exactly the same as the ones on the bike. So that means the problem is else where. I re-read the manual. I figured it might be the adjustment of the caliper via the eccentric cam. Once the wheel was re-fitted I adjusted the calipers. That seemed to do the job. Unfortunately the bike is the wrong way round on the stand.

With the bike turned round I tackled the gear box and sump plug. I dropped the oil from the engine. The new oil pressure switch stopped part of the oil leak but the sump plug was still dripping. I took the sump plug out but that means you lose the oil too. The crush washer was not doing its job. I did not a washer to fit so I could not refilled the engine. Next up was the gear box oil. I took the drain plug out. There was no oil in the gearbox but the plug, which is magnetic, was covered in gunge. I cleaned the plug , as luck would have it, I had a crush washer in stock which I fitted when the plug was replaced. To top the oil up I had to remove the foot peg. That done I measured out the oil, 800cc of SAE 90's and squeezed it into the plug hole. When the oil level is right it dribbles out of the filler plug hole. It dribbled therefore it was full. I replaced the filler plug then the foot peg which just happens to have the gear selector attached.

I got the manual out to make a note of the oil volume for the engine. I need 2 3/4 litres of SAE 10/40's and the note the volume of the fork oil which is 280cc per leg of SAE 5's. Now I just have to go and buy the oil.

A quickie

Having sorted out the items on the near side of the bike I had to turn it around again. It was really heavy again. Only when I got the bike back on the stand did I find out that the rear tyre was flat. I pumped it up to 35 psi. I will check it again in a few days to see if it held pressure.

I had a quick look at the bevel box. I cleaned and refitted the drain plug. I knew I had SAE90 oil in the cupboard. I checked the amount of oil in the carton. It was exactly the amount that is required by the bevel box. I filled the bevel box and fitted the filler plug.

Whilst had a minute I tightened up the bolts for the off side horn. I also cable tied the sleeved cables up to the clutch switch block.

Break Through Day

The first job of the day was to turn the bike round on the stand. The bike is heavier than I remember. It might be because the front brakes are binding.

Today was another break through day. I managed to fit the side stand spring. First time round I used a cable tie and a lever. The cable tie snapped. Next I used two cable ties and a lever. I just managed to to get the spring over the toggle on the side stand. Job done and it works properly. It only took three years to sort it out.


I had decided that the issue with the rear indicators and stop/tail lights was a wiring loom. After more than an hour of deliberation I discovered the fault. It was a issue dodgy earth. Fixing the fault was straight forward if fiddly. I also had to dismantle the rear light /indicator cluster, I cleaned it and carefully reassembled the cluster whist testing each step. Finally it was together and working. I then had to reassemble the loom and refit the relays, organise the wiring in the headlight shell and then refit the head light cluster. At each stage I tested the lights to ensure they worked. I an glad to say they did.

I fitted the near side horn and secured the wiring. It looks neat and the horns work....very loudly. With the horns fitted I then fitted the petrol tank. It was a bit of a fiddle. I hooked up the fuel lines. It is ready for fuel. Some of which I have in a Jerry can in Degsy. I cut a piece of insulating tape to length and stuck it to the rear sub frame to protect it from the seat hinge whilst fitting of the seat. I then fitted the seat. The seat needs a little work but money does not allow for such extravagances.

I discovered a new vendor from a magazine. They are SAS which have a branch in Shepshed. Click HERE from web site. I went along and found a deep 22mm socket which would allowed me to remove and replace the oil pressure switch. I did indeed replace the oil switch. The switch worked fine it allowed oil to pour out through the insulator even under static conditions. I hope the new one, now fitted, does a better job.

Unless I can get a set of instrument pods I will have to remove the Voltmeter and Clock. As it is they are dangling off the headlight shell.

General electrics

Last night [Wednesday] I decided to have a go at the ignition switch. I am sure it is not wired up correctly. First I checked I had the right number and colour of wires. I did. I took the ignition switch off the bike and checked the numbers of the tags against the wiring diagram. The numbers of the tags did not tally. I used the electric meter to try to work out which tags did what. I figured out where the red wire, power, and the grey/black wire, parking lights went. Then I just had three tags and two green wires to hook up. By a process of trial and error I found the homes for the wires. When complete I was able to have the parking lights on, which allows the key to come out of the off the switch. At full on the key is locked into the switch and all the lights and ignition circuits. The brakes lights respond to the levers. I refitted the switch and bedded own the wires into the headlight shell.

I figured out what the rest of the free wires were in the head lamp shell. I have to find the proper feeds for the auxiliary instruments. It also looks like one or more bulbs in the speed/rev pod have blown.

Thursday night I had a go at the clutch cut-out switch. I had to remove the clutch lever to get at the screw that held on the switch. Once the screw was out it was simple job to replace the switch and re-assemble the clutch lever unit. I capped off the unused wires in the headlight shell and tucked them out of the way.

I had recently bought the parking light holder and bulb. I had to use a little foil the make the holder a snug fit in the head light reflector. I fitted a spade connector to the correct switched power wire and connected it up. The earth wire took a bit of routing but I got a good connection. I taped the parking light wires to the headlight wire set to make it neat. The wiring in the headlight shell is very crowded.

Front brakes

This evening I spent a few hours in the garage dealing with the front brakes. I fitted the brake pads but the near side caliper did not line up correctly. It took some working out including changing the wheel spindle. I ended up with the original spindle but well oiled this time. It had a look at the spare front wheel as I remembered it had a disc spacer. Having taken the bolt out of the spare wheel I found the wheel had two spacers. I dismantled the wheel on the bike and fitted the two spacers under the near side disc. I checked the caliper over and found a slider was not in its proper place. I put the slide back in place and carefully refitted the wheel. The wheel spun more freely.

I got the brake fluid from the cupboard along with the bleeding tool. I loosened the off-side caliper bleed nipple. I topped up the master cylinder until fluid came out of the nipple. I shut it off then opened the near-side nipple until fluid showed. Once the fluid showed I shut the nipple. I connected the bleeding kit to the near-side nipple and went through the bleed process. First on one side then the next. I did the cycle twice. The lever hardened up be not as much as I wanted. I checked for leaks and found a small weep where the brake line met the near-side caliper. A quarter turn on the union cured it.

To finish the job I adjusted the play from the brake cable. This reduced the lever travel which meant I could apply more pressure. It is hard to tell just how good the brakes are by just spinning the wheel and applying the brakes but it feel as it should. I connected the wires to the top of the reservoir cap. This should switched of the fluid level light but it did not. So is something to investigate. The last job was to pull the lever when the electric was on to see if the brake light came on with the squeeze of the lever. It did. Another job done.

A box of bits

I think we are very nearly there. A box of goodies arrived at work yesterday. I has a few minutes whilst dinner was being prepared. I fitted the four dome head nuts and coach bolts that secure the front mudguard. I got the stainless steel version of the nuts and bolts. A couple of dabs of copper slip when fitting means they should come off again in the future. The front mudguard is very exposed to the weather so prone to corrosion.

The battery is fully charged and staying charged with the new charger.

Fitting the neutral switch is going to be a bind. I still have not found the right instrument pods. I think I will have to make do with an alternative. Luckily the alternative pods are not expensive. The front brakes is going to be the next job. I think will be busy every evening next week.

Avalanche

The bike's battery is totally flat but I don't understand why. It happens that my battery charger has expired. Are they connected? I found a new bike shop in Woodville. It has been there for years and serves old bikes, British mainly. I bought a new charger. On getting it home I plugged it into the bike. I discovered the problem. For some reason I connected the back light on the clock to a permanent live feed. Over the weeks and back light ran the battery down to death. It took about two hours for the new charger to get the battery moving. By Sunday the battery was pretty well charged.

It was raining Sunday afternoon so I has a good excuse to spend time on the bike. I had a rummage in the box and found the covers for the swing arm pivots and the stantion top covers. Both sets are now fitted and look good. In the bolt box I found a screw that fitted the brake side switch block. I cut off the tie off and secured the switch block with the screw. The right side indicators where not working properly. As they flashed the headlight and tail lights dimmed in time to the indicator. I just happened to be considering the wiring for the buzzer relay. I pulled out the relay to test it. I flicked the indicator switch and found the indicators worked perfectly. Whilst working on the left side of the bike decided to shorten the wiring loom that led down the buzzer and neutral sensor. I pared back the sleeve and cut back the four wires for the buzzer and the two for the neutral switch. I slipped on a length of heat shrink sleeving then stripped back the individual wire sleeves to exposed the copper core. I twisted the correct wire end together and soldered them. Next was the put insulating tape round them to isolate each wire joint of wire end. I slipped the heat shrink along the wire and used the missus hair drier to shrink the new sleeve to size. I positioned the reduce loom against the frame and secured it in place with wire ties. The wiring sub-loom he rear light is too long. Whilst on roll I cut the wires of the sub-loom to reduce the length. It was more of the same, cutting, paring, soldering, hear shrink and finishing with wire ties to secure the sub-loom. I also fitted the plastic wire loops that fit on the rear mudguard to to control the loom back to the rear light cluster. Whilst in a wire fettling groove I secured the wire to the handle bar switches with wire ties. I offered the headlight shell into the headlight cowl. A bit of fiddling and reorganising the cables in the shell allowed the headlight to fit.

I did a lose fit on the front mudguard bracket. It is two bolts short, even so I dry fitted the bracket and the mudguard on the bracket. I offered up the tank but it was was fouled by wiring and the master cylinder. I loosened everything and eased things out of the way until the tank fitted. With the tank on I propped up the rear wheel to put the bile on a nature level. I then fitted the BMW roundrels onto the tank. They lift the tank even thought the paintwork is fab. I popped the seat on for the full effect.

I got the silencers down from the roof space the fitted them. Four bolts either side. I also dipped the threads on copper slip before fitting. I tightened up all the other bolts the secure the exhausts. I put on the front cover just for the effect. The bike looks finished but there several things yet to do. One of the things to do is to make a list of the few parts that are missing.

One little job that has given more pleasure than it should was pumping up the front tyre. It has stayed up so one less thing to worry about. I just have find pods to take the clocks and voltmeter otherwise they with have to be taken off the bike. I cannot have them flopping about. I have found that the clutch cut out switch has been butchered so another thing for the list. The neutral sensor seems to be u/s. I took a tour of the Internet showed how the get access to replace it. another item for the list. I was chuffed to find the rear brake light switched worked. I figured the front would be OK once the fluid was in the front brake system, fingers crossed.

Rear mud guard

I had a painting session. I got some spray enamel and the exhaust hangers, rear mud guard spreaders and and the brake lines. I had previously washed the braided lines withe Swafega which brought them up a treat. I created a sort of spray both and gave the items four or five coats of paint during the evening. By the time I go to them late the next day they were completely dry. I offered up he rear mud guard. No surprise it was a good fit. I sorted out the right length Stainless bolts, washers and nuts. It was just a case of fiddling under the mud guard to place the nuts and tighten them up. Next I fitted the indicator bar and the rear/brake light cowl. I rooted out the rear mud flap and rear/brake light lens. I gave them a wash and set then aside.

I tighten up the bolts on the rear suspension. I took ten minutes to polish up the panniers frames. The previous owner had lacquered the frames but now it has yellowed. I think I have a job on there.

I go the front brake calipers out of the box and dry fitted them. The brake lines are ready. I just need to get the brake pads.

Panniers at last.

After better than a year of looking I managed to find a set of panniers and the frame. They were on Ebay. I have lost several auctions for panniers. I have tried to get just the frames or just the panniers in the past but never secured the goods. The set I won is as good as one can get second hand. The panniers are perfect. The frame is in need of a good polishing with Autosol which should restore the chrome plating. The set is by Krauser and fit the bike perfectly. The frames even have the rubber anti-vibration pads. The frame is also the solid frame that includes the built in rack rather than the version that has the rack as a bolt-on extra. The one piece is much stronger. They even came witha full set of keys. So a major result.

Tins are back

I could not get the indicators to work. Eventually it dawned on me to check the fuses. They were blown. It was the devils own job to fit the new ones. Having got the fuses in the indicators now work a treat. I think I need to make a better job of cleaning up the connector to the rear light loom.

The collected the tins on Saturday. The chap at Granville Motors has made a very nice job of them. I had the paint scheme done as an R75/6. A nice black base with white pin striping. I think it very striking and classic looking. The pressure is on to get the brakes done and other little jobs so the bike can be ridden.

Rear wiring loom

The new rear/stop light unit came in the post during the week. I spent time cleaning up the multi-connector of the rear light/indicator wiring loom. Now I just need to find time to put the wiring loom together. At the moment the indicators are not working but I expect they will as soon as I get the rear part of the indicator loom hooked up.

I got a pair of roundrels for side of the tank when it comes back from paint. The painter rang to check on the colour for the pin stripes. I should be picking the finished tins up in a couple of weeks.

I bought some spray enamel black paint so I should get on and paint the brake lines and rear mudguard brackets. Some of the paint has to go on the Land Rover too.

I must not forget to top up the oil in the bevel box.

A breezy day

I have been waiting for a breezy day and one where I have a few hours to myself. I need to empty the petrol tank of fuel so I can send it, the mud guards and side panels off for paint. Today was that day. I managed to get the job done with spilling any fuel in the garage. When I went outside I managed to tip a cupful all over my trousers. The breeze soon evaporated the spill but not before H had seen the stain on the trousers. I hope to drop the tins off for paint tomorrow. The painters say they need a month. Now that the back wheel is sorted I must use up the month to get the front brakes, the instrument pods and head light sorted. I think I have a puncture in the front tyre so that is on the list too.

New Bearings

The new taper roller wheel bearings, oil seals and thrust washers arrived in the post today. Whilst H was watching the TV I went into the garage and set about fitting the new bits. When I checked the codes on the new bearing I found they were different to the existing ones. It was easy to see the difference. The new bearings are narrower. The difference is enough to take away the play. I did a dry run on the rear wheel putting the bearings, seal and trust washers together. They fitted perfectly. I disassembled it all again then greased up the bearings and reassembled the wheel. The thread on the "new"stainless steel wheel axle is damaged and try as I might can cannot recover the thread.

That means I have had to go back original standard steel item. The original item was rusty where the axle was exposed to the weather. The got the Dremmel out, fitted a sanding wheel and set about de-rusting the axle. It only took a few minutes but it was clear the rust had badly pitted the steel. I cleaned up the worst of the rusting without damaging the diameter of the axle. I not the black spray paint tin out of the cupboard and gave the exposed end of the axle a good coat of paint. I shall try to fit the axle at the weekend. The paint should be hard by then.

More Wheel Bearings

I had a brain wave this evening. Took off the bevel drive and put the rear wheel on the bench. With the wheel off and dust covers out the bevel fitted perfectly on the wheel. I put the bevel back on the bike and offered up the wheel again. It still was a good fit. I took the wheel off and fitted the inner bearing and re-fitted the wheel. Again a good fit. Wheel off. This time I added the oil seal and re-fitted the wheel. Eureka!.....play. So now I know where the issue is. There seems to be few options for sizes of dust seals. I will have a chat with the parts suppliers to see what can be done.

I have also order the instrument pods that will house the volt meter and clock. Hopefully I will have them before the weekend.

I accidentally hit the start button whilst moving the bike; the ignition key was in the on position whilst I checked the volt meter reading, and the bike burst into life. So now the bike wants to run.